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Shame about Quercus, the chap that owns it/runs it is a decent bloke too. Mortise and Tenon magazine, is it worth £22.00 an issue?

I've been using this stuff for a while now, much better than Medite. Finsa Fibranor/Fibrapan Hidrofugo Moisture Resistant MDF | Panels | Latham Timber If yours isn't flat send it back.

The usual council efficiency, when I saw that I was going to write to my local council for an explanation. Is the next place you're moving to a project?

Lovely place Jacob, how come its in council band A, my small three bed terrace is in B?

James makes some interesting but obvious points in this video, personally I find the rectangular section of the Philly knife makes it easy to sharpen, no curved surfaces, I've not found the need for a finger recess or handle, to me these are hindrances rather than advantages.

Very comfortable as it is, no need for a handle which also makes it dead easy to sharpen. Mine did cost a tenner, as I said no box when I purchased mine. Its quicker and easier to buy a knife, I'm a cabinet maker not a tool maker, not enough time in the day for that.

I believe in being taught as you mean to go on so a marking knife in furniture making should be used from the off. A knife is more accurate than a pencil, there is no delusion or doubt about that. Spinning pencils, a knife is easier.

Hi Ttrees, how does a pencil line give a registration? Mark

My recommendation DC Marking Knife Phil used to sell them without the box, which made them cheaper, not sure if he still does. If you make the DC jig, it's easily and neatly sharpened.

Almost, complete rubbish Jacob. To sensibly mark any joint a knife is an absolute must. Pencils no matter how sharp wear out too quickly. A knife line gives you a place to put your chisel and a definitive line to plane to.

Thanks Peter and Rob, it is nice to know they are still made here.

Looks nice, where are Clifton planes made these days?

Everyone is entitled to their opinion Jacob, ours differ slightly.

I'm currently reading all the past comments DC posted on this forum, it runs to 50 pages, of course amongst his comments are yours too Jacob, you two certainly liked to have a dig at one another, sometimes but rarely you agreed with one another, it is quite entertaining to read these old posts...

A little bit patronising Jacob, I did get it and could free hand sharpen to a very good standard, on leaving school I worked with a carpenter for five years who only did free hand sharpening. When I returned to college to study furniture and cabinet making, I read David Charlesworth's books and...

I went from free hand sharpening to using a honing guide, quicker, accurate everytime, extends the life of the blade too.

I have a lot of respect for people who try to make a living like this, The Somerset Craft Guild of which I am a member has quite a few crafts people who sell at shows and other events, its a lot of work, getting there (some travel miles and miles), moving stock, setting up a stall and moving...

I used a pressure treated timber for the frame although you can buy composite joists etc, the beauty of composite decking is the low maintenance, if and when the frame rots the decking can be lifted, the frame replaced and the decking relayed.

I replaced our decking last year with a composite material, so far it's been brilliant, no need to apply finish to it every year like I had to with the old wooden stuff, its weathered through the winter very well. If the decking boards are rotten you can pretty much guarantee at least some of...

I've used the Polyvine Cascamite without any problems, I didn't realise it was manufactured by any other company.