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Sliding router carriage? aka 'router binding jig' - I made this one using CNC rails & sliding bearings, people use draw slides too. Or they are out there to buy. There's a curve-sided doughnut the router bit goes through, which rides on the body edge, without hitting carves. This below's flat...

Panel Wipe is used to clean/degrease before painting, in the bodyshop world. It contains naphtha among other things far as I know. It cleans very well while not attacking paints or plastics etc. It can lift out colour from some bare woods like rosewood, padauk etc though. I use it all the time...

Couple of thoughts (Ok, I can't count) - Doubling capacity via extra tanks might improve things. But say you double the capacity, the comp then runs roughly twice as long to refill. The more a comp runs the warmer & wetter the air. Might collide with duty cycle issues if you're caning the...

I've got the Triton one, bobbin-only. It's got enough juice for what I do, is light and chuckable and isn't expensive. So I don't have it fixed in place, just pull out and temp clamp it to a bench to use it. Less good on mine was the table was far from flat; I took it apart and adjusted it with...

Just to chop out excess to be routing out less, less chippy although recesses are pretty well-behaved and I haven't had any chipping out yet paint or no. The long sides of the pickup recesses are endgrain faces, quick pic here not that you'd need it but should show a recess face. If it saves...

Hi Dave, no worries, I do the actual cutout with a router, but first chisel as much as poss especially the endgrain sides first. Usual stuff. If the paint's at all well put on, wood tearout's more likely than paint problems, but so far haven't had any problems, and never had to do anything much...

What's the guitar? I've done this often enough and never had a problem with paint. I think more about the endgrain passes than the paint itself chipping, smaller cutter and good speed. Chisel out to lessen routing. Etc. If it's not having any kind of surround or scratchplate over it you could be...

Pure phosphoric acid leaves a thickish blackish end result on rust. I think Jenolite is mostly phosphoric acid. It also leaves like a glossy semi-tacky coating on bare non-rusted steel that wants taking off before paint. Pretty good for small areas you can't soak, but you have to keep it wet or...

Displacement is something like car engine capacity, where free air/FAD is what it delivers - like your car's bhp. The FAD is what really matters. Rough rule of thumb is 3cfm delivered per hp of pump power. 10-ish delivered is typical of 3hp motors. Tank size relates more to how often the motor...

Is it a brand new gun? Needs stripping down and cleaning in gunwash first usually, internals can be oil coated. Panel-wipe the surface first, any oils/fingerprints etc need getting rid of. I've only once sprayed MRMDF but it was hard to degrease, I got resistant spots even after panelwiping...

I did the same, Katsu plunge base. Terrible. Bought the Makita 0700 version instead which the Katsu fits right into - almost as bad, sent that back too. Sloppy, had tilt in it, etc. Ended up buying an Elu 97 instead, it might be old but the plunge action is lovely and crisp with no slop I can...

Hi Dave, With the tape I have if you lean on it or give it a tap with a rubber mallet, the tape sticks harder. Sometimes I nip things in the bench clamps if paranoid about the template moving at all, sticks very hard then... much messier to separate. Templates I'm going to keep get a quick coat...

I use a lot of carpet d/s tape for template routing, you have to get the amount right or it's a bear to separate parts. Palette knife to start removing a thing if it won't shift by hand. I rounded the corners off so it won't dig into any wood. Sometimes you get little bits of tape left on...

If it's just for saving elbow grease buffing wax then anything will do, the cheapo electric polishers from Halfords etc work fine. With a microfibre cloth to get at where the machine can't it's sorted quickly. With random orbits the straight rpm figure doesn't seem to relate to purely orbital...

I did it on mine though not via that vid, still ended up adjusting slightly by trialling. That said my saw is not the greatest probably not helping things. My sled is also 1/2" base, the fence is laminated PAR oak with ply lams for the ends. The slider rails are plastic, something that I had in...

It's true hide glue is sometimes used in some places on electrics but not commonly, much more so on acoustics. It isn't really an indicator of quality, most smaller bespoke electric builders use Titebond 1 or similar. An electric solid body is often 2 pieces or more. Fender are commonly 3-piece...

Be careful if the body is multi-piece, I've seen more than one where a join was opened up by heat gun, and singed etc (guitar builder/repair person). That said I've had a Silverline for must be 10 years or more, it refuses to die despite the super cheap price.

Those amps look like fun!

Thumbpicks have a curl or loop to fit on the thumb, the curl then straightens out and projects down to form the plectrum part. I went through a ton of thumb picks, cheap ones posh ones, some metal loops with hard plastic pick etc. In the end it came down to the cheap ones I started out with...

Above all minor features the main thing to me is how accurate is it, runout and play in the quill. I could live with the most basic of drills in favour of being accurate. I've got a Meddings Driltru, bench model. Before that I had a giant Rexxon floor stander. The Meddings doesn't have a rack...