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Fender use all common coatings i.e. cellulose and 2k and/or polyester. Both gloss and satin. Same goes for bodies; back in the 50s it was all nitro. Then later some type of sealer and often a mix of 1k and celly on the same body, for colour & clear. But copies are almost certainly 2k or...

Citric acid is good stuff, quick if used with hot water. Safe as anything to use & dispose (can eat it, take a bath in it - bath bombs made of it). Long time since I used a liner kit but it came with an acid (hydrochloric maybe?) meant to etch, before using the resin. I did shake it with nuts &...

If you can dunk the parts, hot water and citric acid works very well; plastic box with a scrap wood lid keeps heat in, usually done in an hour. Any rust becomes grey slush that wipes away. Cheap and harmless. Clean/degrease really well of course and wire brush loose rust first. I've put a thin...

Yesterday I had to scrub my P/T and spindle sander tables, used Scotchbrite pads. As a bit of an experiment I wiped on boiled linseed oil, and wiped off as much as poss. Left hardly any, just enough to see a colour change on the iron. That's normally good against rust so we'll see. It's dried...

I've got two 177s, a single-speed and a multi-speed. One lives on a mini router sled (platform with side rails), the other in a larger router sled using CNC rails and v-slot etc. Also got an OF97E, I love that thing though don't need it much. And an Elu pin router with the MOF11 kept for...

The SGS 2.5hp, either 24 or 50 litre tanks, is a better buy for the money in that more pump hp makes more air available / pumps up faster. The 24L version is the same thing Aldi sell sometimes (or used to). My other half uses one of those for air staplers for her business, had it something like...

Amazingly useful things, wouldn't be without one. Like my main workbench has been three other benches. Got chopped & glued back together in different ways as needed. Same thing with a trolley a drill & bandsaw live on. Or making castor platforms for a heavy tool to live on. Stands, jigs, etc...

Strip & clean discs are good but wear fairly quick and chuck powder around. Good for wherever you can get a grinder + disc at, at least. They will take off some metal but not as much as a sanding disc say. Dunking in citric acid in hot water strips rust pretty quickly, also converts millscale to...

Buy what you need when needed is top advice. It's easy to go poor quickly buying lots of tools offered but many are 'nice to have' more than essential and make the odds to techs & repair people where speed & efficiency matters. Nosing round boot sales can be good, most of my planes have come...

I have some amber from Rothko & Frost, might be labelled with their Dartford brand but it's on their site ( this one I think ). It's spirit-based, not sure if they do a water equivalent though. I also mix shades up from yellow, brown and red, to get different amber-type shades.

I have some of the first link, plenty strong & stiff, and decently straight; any chunk of ally beam that short will be strong enough, but not all is that straight. Some of that profile makes up my router sled where it's stiffness matters, and another length is used as a router fixture bed, where...

I have one sat ontop of a steel chemical drum, with a £50 ash vac next to it. They sit on a small trolley made from ply and skip-ratted castors. It gets used on routers sometimes, spindle sander and hand power sanders, and mainly as general workshop vac cleaner. The cyclone/can stops the ash vac...

I use gunwash thinners or acetone to wipe down after paintstripping, it gets it the gel carrier glop off quickly and well, gets it out of pores etc. DCM evaporates super fast so not sure the wipe down helps with that so much but the glop clean-up is way easier with a solvent wash.

Hi John, I do sometimes use white spirit. Generally don't get a lot of rust thankfully and spend little time fighting it. Bare steel usually lasts OK in there, some is years old and rust-free. I use panel wipe all the time, but been bitten by oil on wood once, I'm just not going there again...

Oils getting onto wood can be bad news when it comes to painting (build guitars). Usually dodge rust altogether by ventilating the place at the end of a day but sometimes forget and next morning can find rust on things.

I use grey pads equivalent to Scotchbrite but cheaper, when they get a bit worn they get relegated to cleaning up tools and such. Can't have oils everywhere here so use them dry, then thin wax on tables & planes etc.

Full-time builder/painter/repair/restore etc etc. If you were looking to get started with something you might be better going the partscaster route; get a body & neck from known good sources, and the hardware you buy is almost certainly going to be better than the cheap kits. Although, that is...

Chances are the female port on the comp regulator is 1/4" BSP, I think. So basically you choose one of the connector standards and go with that for all your bits 'n bobs. I'm not an expert but think the main standards you come across for this sort of thing are Euro and PCL. Not sure if the kit...

It might depend on the airbrush but generally you can use about any paint, I've used waterbased, nitrocellulose, 1k and 2k acrylic (car paint of old-ish), epoxy primer etc. I'm mainly just laying small areas of colour, lucky for me that doesn't need massive skill, just a feel for the airbrush...

I'm using Liberon Lubricating Wax. When I've forgotten to use it I've found rust spots on the tables sometimes, it does seem to work. Sometimes use it on tools, or wipe on/wipe off some ACF50 or Gibbs Brand (an overpriced overrated aerosol thin oil that happens to be in a rack). Also I've got...