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  1. TheTiddles

    Woodworm advice

    I wasn’t aware monkeypuzzle was much use beyond novelty turnings with those huge knot rings. What’s it like to work with? Aidan
  2. TheTiddles

    What Finish Should I Use on Nightstand/Bedside Table Build - WIP, Advice Needed

    On a planer you’d expect some wedge to be present unless you started with perfectly thicknessed stock (in which case, why would you be planing it?!), the thicknesser will then take that out for you Aidan
  3. TheTiddles

    Knitting needles

    I don’t think stray fibres is a finish problem, did you sand the bejesus out of them? I guess they’re like pens and that you have to go up to very small grit sizes to get a smooth hard finish that doesn’t catch on anything Aidan
  4. TheTiddles

    Table saw v Track saw A bit of advice please

    Here’s a trim cut done on 30mm thick MRMDF with 3mm elm veneer either side, done by a Mafell KSP40 (a little track saw) I got rid of my table saw, I do occasionally miss it. They aren’t the same thing as a track saw so it really does depend on what you’re making Aidan
  5. TheTiddles

    A little project help please :)

    Yes, that’ll rust, however, a good wax or a spray of laquer will hold it off for a long time. I have several pieces of horrendously rusted up cast iron that were grit blasted and sprayed which have the look I think you are after. The galvanised is of course shiny silver coloured, that’s zinc...
  6. TheTiddles

    Bit Fed Up

    I suppose you could, I’d still go for a square most of the time, I think the last time I used the 3-4-5 method was squaring up a raised bed frame as I didn’t have one a couple of metres long. Using dividers is just the old fashioned way
  7. TheTiddles

    Woodworm advice

    I’ve had two strips of kiln dried beech get exit holes after edging MDF, I guess they took up residence in the garage after drying and I didn’t notice when making. I’d treat the timber, tell the client and see what risk they fancy taking Aidan
  8. TheTiddles

    Chess pieces advice?

    Use a threaded arbour (sometimes sold as a bottle stopper arbour) then you use a threaded stud with a machine screw thread one end and a wood thread the other, then you can screw the blanks on and off, they remain concentric and you have a pilot hole for later, also good when finishing too Aidan
  9. TheTiddles

    A little project help please :)

    Housing joints in ply are really strong and help locate on assembly, clean look too. You can buy brackets that are adjustable for wall mounting, they will take out any levelling and pulling up to the wall just lovely, can be hidden behind the back panel which will make the cabinet much...
  10. TheTiddles

    Bit Fed Up

    Nope, use dividers! That way you only need precision and it’s hard to not have precise dividers Aidan
  11. TheTiddles

    An interesting request - a 'games' dining table - Hertfordshire area- Bespoke build

    I had a look at making something a bit like this for someone, it’s not a good dining table though as soon as you have a deep stretcher and not much overhang. By the time you’ve optimised it a bit to remove that problem it starts to look a bit weird. Aidan
  12. TheTiddles

    Tolerances sliding drawer or tray

    Depends how precise your 12mm is. I’d suggest you make and try Aidan
  13. TheTiddles

    Surface flattening router bits

    I’d call that free-hand, unless your sled is on rails and can’t move in any direction with your hands off it, even a 20mm cutter can grab the router. Not sure I’d use a cutter that size in a table without a power feeder either, but others might. Aidan
  14. TheTiddles

    Surface flattening router bits

    100mm cutter with a free-hand router is a level of bravery few have! I am about to do a similar thing and will be going for a Wealden bit in a 1/4” router as I can’t be faffed taking the 1/2” out the table Aidan
  15. TheTiddles

    Finishing furniture backs

    I think you didn’t quite make your point when you expressed it as a question! Anyway, crack on and do it to your way and enjoy the process. Veneered MDF is more common and available than ply, especially with both sides veneered, depending on what you want it’s available from almost all timber...
  16. TheTiddles

    Open backed unit construction

    It could be made strong enough without a back, but it’d be better with. Is it going to be visible from both sides? If yes then I see why you don’t want a back, but then you’ll be looking at wires one side? Dominos vs housing joints... probably the first is stronger. But housings and screws from...
  17. TheTiddles

    Finishing furniture backs

    The Shakers had one answer to the “why” question, George Mallory had another, if you truly don’t understand why anyone takes pride in their work, I actually feel quite sorry for you, but then I spend my life surrounded by people that think and live that way. As for veneered board, there are...
  18. TheTiddles

    Moulding plane fabrication

    There’s a guy job YouTube that makes planes (Gakos), his videos are good Aidan
  19. TheTiddles

    Finishing furniture backs

    Not if you use veneered MDF ;)
  20. TheTiddles

    Cordless Drills & Battery Conditioning

    Yep, those would be some of them!
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