Search results

A bit of MFC and some screws will allow you to make a temporary table that will do this entire job. A good router table takes away needing to make one each time Aidan

I’m afraid that’s Rutlands for you. Most of us wouldn’t buy from them. Some play is essential though, I’d not conflate the breakout problem with a location problem Aidan

Does it go back together with no gaps? Looks like it does. If so a clean up and more epoxy might be the way to go, then once it’s solid, rout out that spline and replace it with a new one going 3/4 of the way through the handle Aidan

Panel doors are best made with 18mm or 22mm MRMDF with 12mm or 15mm thick panels. Some will go for thinner panels, personally I think that looks too heavy. James’s suggested viewing is a good plan Aidan

Now that I want to see!

The local village Facebook group had a rant recently as someone had recommended trades that were no use, had been convicted of fly tipping etc... All of which I found interesting... why would you presume Karen on Facebook knows if Bob the plumber is actually any good or not? If you needed to...

If you have a search, you will find Mike’s opinion of what he does. Nothing says Mike’s right... but he’s an architect and can justify his decisions with why it’s correct and alternatives not. Aidan

This is the pertinent question, slow running grinders are a thing, but they cost more for a reason Aidan

This is really wrong. Lasers aren’t exactly cheap and there’s no residual stress left behind in the part to propagate cracks from, not that it’s too likely on something like this. There’s a good reason for not stamping parts. Chemical etching is the old-fashioned way of achieving the same thing...

Yes Doc, but have you got a YouTube channel though?! :)

Gorilla white glue is nice to use, quick to set. They also make a PU which is very different stuff and will do the usual thing that PU does and stick to most things even when they’re wet. If your material is actually wet still, I’d sit on it for a bit as it’ll only go wrong. Unless you’re...

That may be teak, it wasn’t always silly money and even today teak veneer is not expensive, but the solid to lip the edges is a ferocious price Or it may be iroko. Teak veneer pieces of the period often had solid iroko handles, legs etc...

It does look a bit like you’ve badged someone else’s product, but you have to start somewhere Aidan

Does anyone know what tolerance a 3mm chisel is supposed to be? I mean technically it’s 2.50 to 3.49 mm which is a bit of a barn door... Personally I’d router carbon fibre and cut the corners in with a file Aidan

What problem are you intending to solve? Aidan

Yup, £305 for a Makita jigsaw in today’s money, they’re 3-5 times less now

30mm of oak is absolutely loads of material to take a wood screw, a handful will be plenty to pick up the table and swing it around by the top. Threaded inserts are for things where a narrow tapped thread is weak, you’re not in that situation Aidan

Ah, there’s something so reassuring about a sharpening thread going over the same ploughed furrow for the last 15 years. If the chisel is sharp enough to do what you want, it’s sharp enough. I don’t know a single woodworker who’s work impresses me that doesn’t use a grinding guide, to the best...

Or do we pay for a name and is it made to a higher standard? If you look at woodwork magazines from the 80’s an Elu router back then was something like £300, which today would be hugely undercut by some cheap mass produced tat like Festool. Aidan

Part of the problem is also you get a very unscientific answer, as has been pointed out tools bought a long time ago have a better track record of lasting a long time compared to those bought recently... if only there was some kind of reason for that. You’re probably also more interested in...