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Any sharp tools will do you fine. A fine rip saw for dovetails is best. Knew concepts saws are lovely, but pricey. A paring block makes chiselling a doddle and massively more accurate.

Slower is using air duster cans upside down as then it’s an impromptu freeze spray, I like your method more. I should say it was the fire safety officer letting us use the then expired extinguishers for practice… we just decide her way was boring. At the same place one of my colleagues walked...

Rustins quick drying varnish works very well on ply

Water fire extinguishers are best for racing office chairs round the car park, if you’ve not tried it you really should

Sounds like your top is too thin and made from a soft material that will get pushed around. Roughing up the metal may help for a bit but I suspect only for a while before the hole deforms further. I have a steel one and in 100mm thick iroko it often needs a good whack to get it out

Kids don’t accidentally switch things on, they intend to, they may not understand the implications of it and that’s the danger. I run everything off a fused spur and that’s a standard 13A one and it’s at the far end of the garage, so (at the time) one of the neighbour’s kids would have to go to...

One better combination machine will probably be superior at both operations than two cheap separates, can you really get two separates for £600? Wasn’t aware a decent combination machine was that little anymore. It’s a machine that’ll last you decades if you get a good enough one and they are...

Most of the climate arguments are moot, burning wood at home is a locally dirty way of creating heat, but if you harvest it locally and the number of trees increases, it’s mostly neutral, if however it’s delivered on a truck you start heading for hypocrisy. Could be worse, many climate...

Using pallet wood with either will nadger them up at some stage. Nearly all machines are made in China, like other cheap rubbish such as iPhones and Dell computers… you get my drift.

Black bag in general waste… not my favourite but otherwise it’s a drive to the tip where they want it in wood/garden/general waste bins, after the last one and the general inconsistency I decided I’d save the drive. Anything that can be burned goes to anyone with a wood burner

Flimsiness of MDF << stiffness of wall you’re attaching it to. I only know one person who uses solid timber for skirting, looks terrible.

Health and Safety Executive. Maybe I’m just used to living in a different world to you, but I’m feeling if you don’t know that, you might want to think again about your venture.

I’ve been helped out by other members on here for years, occasionally I can do something for them too. I’ve borrowed tools from them, they’ve borrowed tools from me. Would I help out someone local, yes. Would I help out anyone on this forum, no. It’s totally up to you, you can be the person...

I think Jacob is a good decade or two into not understanding the difference, if you want a light and stiff thing, have a look.

Do what you like! But I’m guessing someone used a chainsaw and a lorry to get the tree out the woods, so you’ve already used machines

Ian’s are the best, and the best of that type. Brusso are good, but that type isn’t my favourite. Horton are available from nichelocks, they are ok for the price, over-buffed instead of finely finished and the edges are a bit messy so need a careful lap back, but they aren’t hugely costly...

You can use electrical tape to wrap one end, but do both and you lose the ability to take up slack that’s built in. I’d not recommend fixing all over, tried it once and it had a tendency to ruck up

Grind the point off your bit

Working fine so far! I’ve not got a lot of experience on this machine, came with cloth backed 40 and 150 and abranet 120 and 180. 40 is brutal but effective, 150… not really doing much after the 180. I usually use exclusively abranet orbital disks

I drum sand oak to 120 with abranet (from 80 usually), then random orbital with 120, 180 then 240, no gain going further than that