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I think your position is not very unique, although it sounds like we have very different jobs, the grass can appear greener elsewhere, it might be, it might not, one usually finds out after having decided to move, which is the risk you sort of have to make. I’ve heard a lot of “you could sell...

British western red cedar, appears lower quality but lower price

Cavitation likely won’t, but I’d not have a heated bath of anything flammable next to a source of ignition personally. Others have differing risk appetites, I’d stick it in a bag.

Nah mate, we can get another 50 posts on this yet Yep, about that

Sweet chestnut or cedar of Lebanon would also be good, then the usual suspects of oak, meranti, iroko. For softwoods larch might be a good plan. Ash and beech probably not so suitable

Red cedar is lovely, if I wasn’t concerned about the price that’s what I’d use, needs stainless screws.

Now that looks a whole lot cheaper! Add a plinth under each unit, a face frame could be scribed to the wall if you wanted to do that too.

The transducer is stuck to the pan, the vibration couples into the metal then through the liquid, which hits the hard item and makes the bubbles that do the magic. I guess if theres an item on the pan itself it can get excited and drive vibration back to the transducer which is not a good thing...

Mounting to stud walls can be done neatly, if you use a strip of wood onto the wall you can pick up the studs and then mount the shelf to the strips, you then need to scribe the shelf, but it’s not hard and an important skill to have. Same can be done for the rail. Drawer boxes in ply would be...

Yep, that’s it, should fit with your overall look and also be structural. I’d sort any remaining problems before you do it

On the sides, rout a slot down the centre of the edge, maybe 10mm deep and 15mm wide, glue in a strip of maple that will fight against the movement of the blocks perpendicular to it.

The layup you have there is the very maximum of movement you will get in wood, all endgrain. So you need to get all the material as close to the conditions it’ll see in use before you build it. The end of a board might be drier (or wetter) than a piece halfway down it’s length etc If it was me...

The dust is a really interesting phenomenon, I have fairly decent extraction, but nothing special (fixed unit with fine filter for machines, mobile vacuum for power tools). I cleared some shelves that haven’t been touched in years last week, there are probably more dusty shelves inside our...

Quick thoughts…. That plinth looks like a tad overkill, even for me. The gap in the corner, is that going to get just filled with mess? Hard to do much with it admittedly. Presuming it’ll be fixed to the wall or it’s not got enough structure to stop it being very wobbly, a face frame would help...

Do you mean a triple-chip blade, so not alternating tooth bevel? They are pricey… I’ve been using some small router cutters as an alternative to that approach recently and they’re holding up far better than I expected, Trend ones with solid carbide about £12 each

Shopping around for the supplier makes a large difference too, there are some suppliers that take it straight off the ships in and deliver who are miles cheaper than main merchants, but you can have what they’ve got, not necessarily all the variety

Same here, despite knowing full well what would happen, the mess increased, interestingly I’d never let that happen at work

I think he means as the conveyor belt. Mine feels like something around 100G and doesn’t appear to cause problems, in theory your part is not moving relative to the belt

Plenty seem to come with a sub fence, all seem to have the holes to mount a sub fence for the purpose.

I think we hold them in similar regard! To be fair in a different place the oven stoped working one morning and that afternoon they were replacing it with a decent new one, saying they’d not put anything in they wouldn’t be happy to use themselves.