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One should never ask me what is normal! Personally I would be very reticent to pay for something I’ve not got, so for instance the garden people wanted 50% up front, so I give them money and if they go bust… I’ve lost it. I did stage payments instead, they clear the site, they get 30%...

I’m surprised you’ve not already returned it. Then again, I’m surprised you paid that much for something you hadn’t seen… but I’m surprised by many things. If you keep it, there’s a heck of a lot of sanding to get the saw marks out the beech. I’ve always wondered, is there a term for when you...

Knife hinge or the larger ones called paste table hinges, easily available online

You could make them thicker and hollow like pressboard doors, then use standard door hinges

It can be done. It’s not a good plan, you’d have to remove the crown guard and then make an alternative one for the purpose, or leave it off… and that’s the first line of an accident report Really this is a bandsaw job or do it by hand, it’s not that hard in green wood

Why doesn’t he just use a specific shooting board plane, or a mitre guillotine? Because he hasn’t got one, a smoothing plane will do the job for now, surely most of us did at one stage? The piece he’s working on is tiny, a block plane would do it.

The risk is of the blank rotating slightly during the cut, the back of it touching the rising blade and it being lifted up. Mostly preventable, crown guard will inhibit it to

Second hand units like that are available on online marketplaces regularly for very little, some paint and effort is all it’ll cost you. Making something like that half-decently,£230’ish? A sheet of 12mm ply for the drawers, 18mm for the carcass, poplar frame and features, oak and veneer for...

Yeah, I’ve bolted two record bar clamps together and when I needed longer used two strips of pine and the same bolts. I have heard that back in “the good old days” workarounds for having less tools were more common and so there were plans for extenders for making panel clamps using g-clamps… I...

Some wood has a wide range of colours, most have very similar structures, so being able to see the grain is important but it’s not foolproof… does it matter what it is, all the time? Often not, I’ve got some very light American white oak that’s hard to tell apart from some slightly dark ash

What have you sharpened it on? Does it work well down the grain on something hard?

Oli Natura is less than half the price of Osmo and has a screw top, I’ve just bought some but not tried it yet

Probably what I meant was a bow saw (though some places call them frame saws), like a big coping saw, a length of bandsaw blade you can angle so you can cut circles from your rough cut parts

If you want to do it cheap then make up a frame saw, with wet wood it’ll cut quick and be very small and cheap, unless you’re doing a lot it’s not a lot of work

You will have a rebate after the first pass, it only needs to be the depth of your blade projection, so not a lot

Did your risotto do something to upset you? ;)

Just checking… do you mean using a table saw to cut circular blanks?

Coasters (for sale) - mineral oil, because it’s very forgiving, cheap and vegan friendly. For things out the oven - metal.

Agreed on maple or sycamore, also is it solid? If ply it could be birch

Pine is hard to cut cleanly due to it being soft and stringy, got to have a fine sharp blade. So it all looks fine to me other than your blade might be a bit rough at 1000g and possibly too sticky-out, you can’t cut much at a time on pine