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What's wrong with using the walnut? It's just about the easiest wood I've ever worked with.

Tips? Yep, do a practice one first in some cheap wood.

......and with the greatest of respect, so are mine. I usually get to commission half a dozen bat surveys a year, roughly.

This is twaddle. Bats are in serious trouble, and that's due to human activity....and to attitudes like this. I've been through bat surveys any number of times, and the most I've ever seen charged to my clients is £1100, including mitigation advice. A lot of the "advice" in this embarrassing...

DTI?

I'm watching you Bob. Closer than you think. :wink: :lol:

:) No. You can't see your marking-out. And you can't see the grain. I'm sure I've got some walnut..... .......but I've got paths, garage and bike shed bases, a rooflight, and a greenhouse to build in the next few weeks.

What does the thing look like? Joints are designed in answer to the type of load, and the relationship between the bits of wood, so until we know that we're just shooting in the dark.

If only I had time........ This looks such a fun little idea. I reckon anyone wanting to help themselves timewise would be sensible to pick walnut, but yeah, cherry is also sensible. I'd definitely be bringing a router plane to the party, if that's allowed.

I don't know the company, but I do know the principles. It is very difficult to build these kits into something well insulated and long lasting. I'd be very cautious indeed if i were you.

Correct. The counterbattens are against the structure & membrane, and ideally, the horizontal battens should have a sloped top edge draining water inwards such that it isn't trapped against the back of the cladding. This is going to affect the vent design at the bottom, the eaves at the top, and...

That's a nightmare situation. I think the ideal answer is to remove the build up from against the outside of the wall. If that isn't possible, then dig out, tank the outside if necessary (to about 6 inches above the finished ground level), and if it is essential that the ground level carry on as...

It's a bizarre claim in a number of ways. CAD drawings aren't accurate to X decimal places, they are absolutely accurate. If I measure the length of any line I've drawn and find that there is a decimal in the length, then I know I have got something wrong somewhere. There's no plus-or-minus...

Again, the lime mortar in the walls, and lime plaster internally, is what moderates the moisture content of these buildings. The key thing is to get all the fundamentals right (ground levels, service penetrations, no sources of concentrated damp, ventilation, etc), and to keep the materials...

There's a really good argument for abandoning the table saw in this tiny space. A properly set up bandsaw will do all your ripping perfectly well. I would hazard a guess that most active woodworkers here have a bandsaw/ PT set up, in lieu of a tablesaw, simply because the latter eats space. I've...

Each to their own, but I couldn't work in such a crowded space. There isn't even room to deal with a half sheet of ply/ MDF. I'd personally forget the tablesaw, and the mitre saw can't work where it is.

It definitely will. I don't think epoxy is a suitable material for this purpose.

If you are making your own doors, the problem goes away. If you aren't, then buy the doors, and frames if that's what you plan to use, before you start laying bricks.

Dial is one step, too.

It fundamentally misunderstands how old buildings work. It adds non-porous, non flexible materials to buildings which depend on porous and flexible materials in all sorts of ways. It moves damp problems into other parts of the building. It masks the real issue, which is almost always to do with...