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Heathen! :) I'm going to put a steel door on my new bike shed. It will look like steel.

In these days of battery operated chainsaws and reciprocating saws, if you have wooden doors it doesn't matter what sort of locks you have.

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You clamp it in the vice. If the shaped face is the issue, do the edges first. Or set your machines up so that it runs along on its back. The angled edge doesn't usually extend to meet the moulded face. There's a flat bit in between, so you shouldn't be losing your datum.

You continue to call it C24. That's like trying to describe a car to the police by only saying "it was a 1300". "Pine" is a generic term. There are hundreds of types of pine. And I didn't say you had downgraded by going from treated CLS timber to untreated redwood. I just said you had reduced...

Hand plane?

The vent doesn't have to just be below floor level. I has to be below the bottom of the joist. Therefore you'd have to raise this floor getting on for a foot. As that clearly isn't possible, you either need to lower the vent (that will depend on the external ground level), or put in a periscopic...

You missed your calling in life. You'd have made an absolute fortune as a plasterer.

Everyone knows this is all just flim-flam. There are only four units of measurement that count: a gnat's nadger, a tennis court, Wales, and a double decker bus.

No, he was right. If you click "reply" in a separate thread, you get a quote in a text box. You don't need that quote in that thread, so you cut it, and paste it into the text box in the thread where you do need it.

You do know you've gone from treated timber to untreated, don't you? If you were getting 4 or 5 years from your previous wood, expect less now. It's not a result of a different kilning process, either. It's likely a different species of wood. Oh and "C24" is only a strength grading thing, and is...

That's not really the reason it is in tension. it is in tension because the lowest part of the top frame is below the highest part of the bottom frame, and one hangs from the other.

Yeah, they're a bit similar. I find if useful to have a coarser saw, around 10 TPI, and a fine 16 TPI (but rip filed) saw, in addition to the basic workhorse 13/ 14 TPI. Frankly I don't bother filing them anything but for rip. In all honesty you can easily get away with having just the one...

There is quite a difference between sharpening existing teeth and starting again with a blank plate, cutting your own. Actually just cutting the teeth in the first place sharpens them, so I would expect that a saw would be sharp when new. Whether it is set or not is a different question.

The following day will be fine. You could take a risk at sooner, but there doesn't seem much point.

It is here, too, although the customer might not see it like that.

Given the huge numbers of unused Stanleys, Records and so on sitting idle around the world, the only reason that I can see for a user (as opposed to a collector) to buy a new tool rather than a second hand one is because it requires no work to get working. I imagine, therefore, that this is the...

Blessed are the cheesemakers........ :)

Correct.

The central chain hangs the top piece off the bottom piece, and the 4 corner chains help stabilise it.