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Go back to that thread, John, as there are detailed photos of the mesh.

He's been given the correct answer. This has to hold up the roof. Any variation on a 3 way mortise and tenon ends up with the entire weight of the roof taken on just the tenon.

Yep, I specify it all the time. Just a word of caution......it's been pinched off a couple of buildings I've done over the years. Both were in town centre locations, so yours is probably a whole lot safer.

Is that Lindab guttering, Adrian?

Yeah, they're knackered old shirts that have served 20 years or more as ordinary shirts. Fit for the workshop or gardening only.

Your workshop shirts have breast pockets? Wow, they're somewhat posher than mine...... :)

For a while, your searching will take longer! Once you're used to it, you'll be glad you went through that exercise. I'm building a non-Welsh Dresser......painted softwood and ply, with oak shelves and worktop. Today I cleaned up the oak worktop after gluing it yesterday, and I dovetailed the...

I agree with Droogs, but would add that augers pull themselves into the wood, and so once you get started they can be a bit difficult to control. By that I mean they go quickly, and they stay in the direction you set them off at, so if you go wrong at the start you can't easily straighten things...

Yes, chalk, but it's dug up from the ground wet, and doesn't dry into something hard for quite a while. This means it can be rough shaped with a spade/ adze/ axe/ froe, then set aside to harden. Around here it is sometimes used to build a whole building, and sometimes just used as quoins for a...

That's a very traditional style. You see it around here, often mixed with flint, and with broken tiles built in as well. Some people erroneously call it a clunch wall (clunch is a weird stone.....more on that if you're really bored). This is a bit "samey" to match that vernacular, but...

Yep. One of these things that could really only be decided by holding a lump of it in your fingers and seeing it for yourself.

But he said it was hard. One of the reasons why I suggested that plaster of Paris might be involved.

More often off-white/ ivory/ cream, depending on what it's been mixed with (chalk or sand). - It's well established now that this isn't lime, and therefore plastering over it with lime wouldn't be a good idea.

Excellent, well done. It's a pity about the broken teeth. You were just unlucky, I think. I've never had a tooth break. I hope you finished off that handle and gave it a coat of something.....otherwise, that's your job for this morning!! :)

I suspect from the poster's title and from his description of his tools and methods of working, that he isn't a hand-tool woodworker, so I don't think he'll be wanting a tail vice. Hmmmm.....We'll never agree on that! :) Best in my view is a sturdy bench permanently located in the prime spot...

Welcome Wayne. You're going to enjoy your new workshop...... .........but you may have to have a little rethink of the sizes of the stuff you are planning for the inside of it. I did a little drawing: This doesn't leave enough room to walk, let alone work. And if you build anything of any...

Power Rewind, Colchester.

I think it might help if you could grab a photo of the 6" cut you mentioned, because that is clearly the most important issue. I don't think it would be a huge loss to the furniture world if you were to simply split this down into its constituent parts and store the boards away for a future...

Very clever.👍

So this is in place of using a mallet or plane to support the free end of the tail board as you mark up to cut the pins? How does it stay in place, particularly if the boards you are using are thinner than the edge-guide/ batten thingies? And half the cuts in a box or drawer are referenced to...