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It's the same old story: any level which is accurate is as good as any other. A cheapie from a shed which is accurate is every bit as good as a Stabilia. What you pay for with a Stabila is having to test rather fewer before you find one which is bang-on.

We've covered this already, Graham:

I think you'll find that if you epoxy fill it, it will be finished. I'd wear welding gloves for the job, personally. :)

Damn, those augers...... If anything goes wrong with that put me on the reserve list, please.

That being the case it's conceivable that this red plastic is the freeze-resistant plastic from '67 to early '70s, and the black plastic is the stuff that superseded it. A late 60s date for the plane would fit pretty well with it being purchased new by my late FIL.

A window, for instance, can have rebates in excess of 35mm deep. A door frame has rebates over 45mm deep.

What difference would that make to any discussion?

I'm talking about rebates way bigger than a router can cut.

Interesting. That hadn't occurred to me. I guess this this were the case they'd have been using up stock of the wooden knobs before going over to plastic ones.

Well it still needs to be straight on plan, so those lines aren't for the coursing but just to make sure the wall ends up in the right place.

Just curious...... The only thing I would ever find a table saw useful for would be cutting larger rebates. This would be perfectly easy with a riving knife, but not with a crown guard if that attached to the riving knife. How do properly set up machines manage this sort of cut?

The thing is, I know the black plastic to be authentically Stanley, as I bought the plane new in the 70s (it's a number 4 Handyman). I don't know anything of the origin of this number 5. They've done a good job making that beech look like oak.

Help me out with this please chaps. I have recently acquired a Stanley no. 5 which has a (broken) red plastic handle, but an oak(?) knob. Which is likely to have been original to the plane? I suspect the plastic handle has been transferred from elsewhere, as the other plastic handled Stanley I...

They're not. They're thin on the ground, but they exist both in real life and on the interwebthingy.

Do we really need another covid 19 thread?

Stretcher bond is half a brick thick. This wall is a brick thick. So this one would be stronger.

Use a card scraper. Absolutely no harm done if it turns out to be something hard, and it would the best choice anyway for cleaning up timber with varying grain directions and an unknown surface build-up.

Well, I for one would rather see a wall like this any day of the week rather than a flat expanse of stretcher bond.

Hi Adam. Your turning might get a bigger audience in the "Wood Turning" sub-forum.

There is no mesh at the top. There is no specific air admittance gap. The various gaps around and through the boarding are sufficient.