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I like the idea, but.......... I guess the thought of hacking 4 channels out of that nice oak worktop is a step too far for me. Whether I or someone else would ever use this unit without the top parts I don't know, but they certainly wouldn't if I cut sliding dovetails. I'll have a think.

I don't think there will be any MDF within about 5 miles of the project, literally.

One of my forthcoming jobs includes designing a private library. This will be in solid timber, and I am curious as to whether or not there are timbers to avoid. Do any timbers (or any finishes) react with books?

If you send a message to Angie, she'll sort it for you. Edit..........she clearly has already! :)

You thought it was going to sit you down and tell you a good story?! :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Just as a matter of interest, how long ago did you make these? I ask because I'm curious as to whether or not they stayed flat. Slices across a branch like that are prone to all sorts of movement.

Damn, you got there first! :) - The answer from the entire forum is no, we wouldn't buy any more. We've all got enough tools already. ;)

I'm after suggestions for a little detail which has me bothered. At the bottom of the upper units, where they sit on the oak worktop, I am not sure whether to have the worktop on show inside the cupboard, or whether to have a bottom shelf at the base of that unit. I'd like to see the oak, but...

I couldn't agree more. The first thing I do when I see a new woodworker is go to his complete video list and see if there is any furniture or other interesting projects. If it's just workshop jigs and storage, I don't bother even opening a single video. The presentation and editing might be the...

I've had a really bad back for a few weeks, so the various jobs that I've wanted to do have been on hold, and I have tottered out to the workshop now and then to plod on with an easy filler of a job..making a new dresser for the kitchen. This will be a 6 foot long dresser with upper and lower...

Plastic isn't necessary with OSB. It has so much glue that it is virtually vapour impermeable, so it acts a a vapour barrier itself. It's a different story with your plasterboard, of course, where a vapour control layer is necessary. And it doesn't depend on the type of insulation, which has...

Well done Woodmouse. That's excellent. I'll be keeping an eye on how nicely the drawer fits, though, so make sure you get it spot on! :)

I'm slightly curious as to why you were setting this part of the joint out with a square. I think I might have clamped the brace in place, with it's dovetail half-lap made, and just marked out around it with a knife.

Yeah, that's the wrong way around I'm afraid. You can safely varnish over epoxy, but not so much the other way around.

Well, that is rather special. How have you stabilised the drawing work?

I presume your thread title is supposed to read "An idea......" If you click edit in your first post, you can correct the typo.

Why not? Please be very careful showing anything involving machinery before you know precisely what you are doing. Remember that other people watch this stuff, and just because you didn't cut your fingers off doesn't mean they won't......

Well, that's not what you do. You set the pin board carefully in place level in the vice, at the same height as a plane on its side (traditionally) or your mallet (my preference, because you have a mallet on the bench anyway when making dovetails, and not a plane). The tail board then sits in...

It's how I earn my living.

I go into the workshop at least partly to escape the computer.