Search results

If you don't have a grinder, but do have a belt sander, remove the collection bag, mount the sander on it's side and with some 80 grit (or thereabouts) paper you can grind a new primary bevel quite easily. Have a jar of water to hand, and if and when the blade gets too hot to hold, sit it in the...

There's a third category: being paid to do something that no-one else has thought of.

The other thing to check for is plastic handles. If they have hardened teeth they will, as far as I know ALWAYS have a plastic handle. However, some non-hardened saws also have plastic handles. Quite a few, actually. So if you see a wooden handle you can be certain you have a sharpenable saw.

The cheap "disposable" saws have hardened teeth, and this shows up as being coloured bluey-black.

No. I doesn't matter which way you hang it, it's still a dead load on the trusses. - Let's stop this conversation about the trusses dead by actually measuring. Measure the floor to u/s of chord at the wall, and measure it again in the middle. (Unless you have a laser. And we have to assume the...

My worst cut was from catching a chisel that I clumsily flipped off the bench. I'll take a couple of days of wearing a plaster over having to regrind a good chisel any day of the week! I don't think I've ever cut myself with an edge tool whilst I was actually using it.

For a first project, that's superb. Well done.

Exactly. It's worth remembering that the bottom chord is actually suspended from the rafters, and particularly the ridge, by the intermediate "W" timbers. Unless there is some extravagant load up there I wouldn't be worried......after all, these things support water tanks in most houses.

6mm ply is too thin. It will sag across that gap (600mm). You need to be using 10-ishmm miinimum. Beware, however, that shuttering ply tends to be thicker stuff. If you buy thin ply it might not be shuttering ply, but instead be the awful far-Eastern ply which is soft and weak.

True, but OSB tends to be flatter than shuttering ply, which can be twisted and cupped horribly. You can be fine if you choose your own sheets.

No need for sistering. Your span is only about 3.5m in the middle of the room, and if there is any doubt about the load bearing of those truss bottom chords then one simple beam across the underside of the middle would remove all doubt.

Ah no.......you're confusing things. My commas were placed carefully! :) OSB and ply each act as a vapour barrier in themselves (they have so much glue in their construction that they are almost vapour-impermeable). Plasterboard doesn't, and MDF doesn't. If you choose plasterboard, it needs to...

Interesting shaped room! All of those sheet products are heavy, so the choice boils down to price (plasterboard) or robust-ness (OSB, MDF, or ply). You need a vapour barrier, so that would mean foil backed plasterboard, OSB or ply, or messing about with polythene. For me, in a workshop where...

To be clear, bar an occasional dodgy back, I'm 100%. Fit as a flea. I know how lucky I am, though, and I'm just paying tribute to all those who aren't quite so lucky. Thanks for all the "Likes", folks. Well over 100 now. I hope that gives a bit of comfort and moral support for those people it's...

Lons, what you need is a speaker system in your garage, and some sort of connection back to your phone, so that as the little sods start breaking into your car you can yell at them........."'ere, yes you. Stand still laddie......"

Buy this planed, by all means, but buy their stock lengths. Essentially, that's what you'll be paying for anyway with this cutting list, so you may as well have it, and keep the offcuts. Cutting stuff to length is just about the easiest skill in woodworking, and it's quick, too. I really don't...

Where did Custard train? That'd be the first place I'd try to get into. (edit....I've remembered.......The Barnsley Workshop) I wish you well, Cookiemonster. I hope this turns out well for you. I'm heading down a comparable path, as I've a wood-based business in mind for my retirement. My only...

:) People have died for less......... :)

Don't use winding sticks along the length as described above. They're for the ends only. If they are parallel at either end of the bench, then all you need is a straight line between them.......so some sort of straight edge, or just sight along the benchtop.

Or just using your bevel gauge. The actual angle is unimportant.