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  1. M

    Machining old teak

    Here is some of the teak to be used as deck planks, now oiled with Danish oil and i've also pasted an image of one of the porthole liners on the finishing forum. We are really pleased with how the teak has come up - it has taken a lot of work, and I guess no professional would have the time to...
  2. M

    Finish for old teak

    OK, Ive sussed it
  3. M

    Finish for old teak

    Thanks for the response. In the end we plumped for Rustin's Danish oil as we could get it from a local shop for a good price per litre. If I can work out how to do it, Ill post a picture of a porthole and the teak liner. The teak is 34mm thick.
  4. M

    Finish for old teak

    Hi. We have now finished making a number of porthole frames out of the old teak that I was asking questions about a couple of months back. Before the frames are fixed to the cabin sides (using stainless machine screws tapped through the cabin side, and plugged from the inside) we need to decide...
  5. M

    Stiff Plunge on new router

    Thanks for replies. Having now pulled the gaiters back and got some 3 and 1 in (and the "gaiters" are actually the springs with a tight rubber shroud - not just a gaiter), it has now freed up. Re the bushing - it's things like that explain how costs are cut, and the item can be produced at a...
  6. M

    Stiff Plunge on new router

    I have bought a new router - a Ryobi 1150. I realise that this is not going to be the best quality tool, but to be honest I only want one for a few specific jobs, and I think it has enough power and capacity to do what I need (having had a go with an older much less powerful Bosch from a mate...
  7. M

    Machining old teak

    I'm sure that is the best policy - the problem with this stuff is knowing if the rot is there, as we have machined it up and all surfaces appear sound. Today we've ripped and cross-cut a number of planks through the counter-bored holes to assess any rot and they have so far been clean and not...
  8. M

    Machining old teak

    Rot in the teak. In the process of rebating some planks that otherwise appeared good, we have found a small patch of rot. This is just a little worrying. The planks had been fixed to the steam boat's frames using copper nails at approx 18" centres. The fixing holes had then been plugged so the...
  9. M

    Machining old teak

    Well, a weekend with a Triton 2000 workcentre, a 7.5" makita saw, the dewalt planer, the Triton planer attachment and the high fence/jig recommended by Triton, and we have made really good progress on the teak. The planer attachment and jig enables 6" planks to be effectively thicknessed by...
  10. M

    Machining old teak

    Nice table, nice teak. From what I have seen of ours so far, it is generally unfigured with a very even grain, and without a knot to be seen. The lining and fitting of a fine heavy weight narrowboat built as a remake of two particular late 1950s boats. We have started with deck planks, and...
  11. M

    Machining old teak

    Following Rob and Pauls advice, I've been prompted to dig out an old 22" ?fore plane given to me a few years ago that I have never paid much attention too. It needs some restoration, but nothing too drastic (as long as I am right in thinking that although the sole has a couple of cracks it is...
  12. M

    Machining old teak

    Thanks for the responses. Yes it is definitely teak, from a carvel built steam boat built in 1903. The rot is where Rock Elm knees have been. What is one of these? And simply, can TCT knives be sharpened, or once they have lost an edge are they junk?
  13. M

    Machining old teak

    Hello - first post. I've been a dabbling wood worker for many years but am mostly familiar with using old hand tools. I am not at all experienced with either jointers or thicknessers. I have a project involving *a lot* of reclaimed teak. The planks are up to 8" wide and 1.5" thick are all in a...
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