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Did you mean "sliding"? Funny you should say that! I've just knocked up this: The plug cutter is held in the pillar drill chuck. The 12x12 bar "floats" in the plug cutter. The tap is fixed in the 12x12 bar. It travels down nicely, but you have to be quick to lift the drill+plug cutter off the...

Thanks for all the help. One last comment, which is why use a straight-fluted tap at all? Is there some benefit when tapping by hand? I had thought of using the pillar drill, but then realised the tap needs to be free to make its own path. That tapping head looks on the expensive side. The...

Oops. ...to 1/8" square, I meant

Okay! Off I go! Thanks! Whilst on the topic may I ask about an adaptor for the taps, standard 1/4" hex male to 4mm square female? (At the moment I'm overtightening the tap into a 3-jaw chuck - not great. Thanks again,

PS Thanks for pointing out that for through holes I don't need a 3-piece set!

Thanks - I should have been a little more explanatory... I've always tapped by hand: +oil, forward 1/2, back 1/4, depending how it feels, but this time I had 56 holes to tap, and the electric screwdriver was just an experiment which seemed to work (surprisingly?) well on all 56. But when I came...

Hi all. I have a fairly slow rechargeable screwdriver which I've successfully used with a 3mm hand tap to thread holes in 6mm mild steel. Eventually, though, my luck ran out, and the tap broke under the strain. I was wondering about using a 3-piece set to replace it (consisting of a light...

Excellent, thank-you! I'll get to work with a connecting block right away! My saw looks the same as your 'cheap one', but in the video I did like the quick tension release on the other one. Oh well. Thanks again,,

Makes a laser cutter look like a waste of money!

Hi - in the pic, you can see (a) that my Titan scroll saw only takes "rodded"(?) blades, and (b) that the bracket that the blade is attached by looks replaceable. Does anyone know if there are similar brackets available, or makeable, to enable "screw-tightened"(?) blades to be used? Thanks...

Ok, thanks. I must say I've had success polishing acrylic by going down (up?) the grades, from maybe 120 to 1200 and finishing with Brasso. Fine for flat or even curved surfaces, but not for a hole only just large enough for a finger (if you want to hold on to all five).

Good responses, thanks! It seems I've been a little er unknowledgeable on several counts, not for the first time :) Very interesting discussions tho. I think I'm going to go with J-G's "start with 6mm, progressing in 1 or 2mm increments until I can get a boring bar in". I take it a boring bar...

Because all I could find had a 2mm wall, much too thin. I'll check that link, thanks. If a 40 x 20-25mm bore was available, fine. I'm not mad, cough. That said, I'd want one end sealed tight against pressure... I suppose a gasket and a ring of self-tappers, tho I've found that in acrylic...

Inspector: Interesting... thank-you.

Spectric: Yes, but I'd like it transparent. Admittedly, I didn't expect all this trouble!

Rorschach: Thanks!

Strange that my comment re Variable Frequency Inverters seems to have disappeared. Browsing ebay, the prices seem to have come down a lot, to <100 or even <50. But they are poorly explained and nearly all have a 3-phase output. Why? Could I use just one phase? Also, they have block-connectors...

The Tiddles: Anchoring the support wasn't difficult. I'd attempt a gearbox in the same way. Well, similar.

The flat bit is all I have for >20mm. I knew it would make a mess, but expected that taking another 1mm off with a sharp side-chisel, done extremely slowly, would be ok. But no. (I call it a side-chisel, home-made: Don't know if it has a real name? :) Yes, I should have used oil. I tried a cold...

Phil - Probably not! I've already gone to a lot of trouble with supporting the "rod" so it doesn't wobble, gripping the side-chisel in the tailstock to move it in slowly, trying different versions... Everything I try to do seems to go just beyond what's possible, at least for me! Moan.