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Kinda, but i find that erasers can smudge and leave deposits in open grained woods. TBH my best answer is remove pencil with a fine set card scraper but I know if that’s not an option for everyone.

A broad pencil for face marks , eg HB carpenters pencil doesn’t bother me if I sand from 120/180 upwards, carefully, I realise oak’s open grain might cause you some concern though. Try a test? For hard fine pencil lines for cuts the saw will remove them. If in doubt or I want a bold label on a...

I get that bandsaws can misbehave - a pass through a thicknesses, drum sander an/or work with a hand plane can still give good results. For pieces your size I’ve used a handsaw - it works. Other than that, the suggestion to use non water based glue - PU or epoxy, not PVA/Titebond plus a...

I was going to say something like yojevol above so won’t repeat that. The thicker veneers allow a bit more scope to sand/plane albeit still with care - I’ve sawn 3 mm veneers for this reason and it’s nice to have. Laminations of 0.7 mm veneers could still show if you sand through the top...

Good advice above. One more thought if you want edge as well as face quality and if you’re able to do this. Cut the circle oversized (straight or down cut bit with a good flat backer underneath to avoid breakout on the bottom), then reduce it with very very fine cuts. A compression bit could be...

There are some good answers above about letting the timber acclimatise after cutting and alternating growth rings. Can I suggest also if you’ve thicknessed significant depth off one face, ‘cupping grooves router on the rear, I milled this down with the thicknesses to remove’ that would be a...

A few points, I’m no professional machinist so there will be better authorities here and elsewhere on the web, this represents what I do/don’t do; but, you want to be in reach of the off switch without reaching over/through the work - that’s typically on the front left, fence on the right...

I think i got dividers out to mark a constant radius from the arbour the the knife will naturally arc around. It is probably just mild steel so careful progress with a file, maybe a drill might be a prudent approach. (Other) Phil

+1 for this, I did it and think it’s the right thing to do, just consider if the slot needs to angle/curve to preserve the separation from the back of the blade. This way the knife can stay in (lower) for grooving (dadoes) or partial cuts provided you’re ok with this and be pulled up for full...

A bit of heft helps, so 5 1/2 or possbly a 6 although that’s rarer and tends to be more expensive. For further info I use a No 62 for the low angle with a LN hot dog handle, also an expensive combo but it’s a good option for me and has many other uses.

On the second part of your question, that would seem to be the middle of the base assembly flexing under torsion from the top so yes, I’d agree that’s not desirable. Fixing could just involve going massive on your build, or the first thing I’d try would be triangular fillets in the inside...

To answer this in isolation, I would shoot up to about 22mm thickness on a board and for thicker than that I DO have enough registration with the toe of the plane. Are you holding the plane low down, on the casting, that may help keep the sole registered with downward pressure. Also, as always...

That’s quite a wide shelf for mdf and runs the risk of progressive sagging. One option is to put a beefier oak strip on the front instead of just the cosmetic one and run a 26 x something rebate in that depending on your stock.

Ooh Andy, you’ve gone straight through ‘special interest’ and out the other side with that. Anyway, I was trying to work out the front half, looks like a nicker but is it just hammer set, no wedge? Cheers Phil

@workshopted I think you are teasing us. It’s working.

Hi Fanous, once you get the machining done do you plan to glue up into a single slab top? I can see a future problem as there’s a horizontal top rail and ( I assume but can’t see) all 4 legs mortised into the top - that sets up a big cross-grain movement fight. If you’re heading to a split top...

I’m looking forward to the tsunami of quality 2nd hand router planes then :-). I could do with another ( I have a nice modern veritas one)

Trim those small cross grain pieces short in case the base shrinks, but other than that 2 screws on that length (reduced if you bring them in toward the centre) should work fine. Maybe wait for a second opinion on here though. And countersink/bore well if you’re putting planes down near them...

It looks like the end pieces are separate, so could you run them over a core box router bit in a table - larger ones included here - Core Box. Or clamp both the end pieces together drill front to back along the joint (probably an auger) making half a hole in each side at once, then...

I don’t know that chest but if you’re putting strips in line with the grain you’re fine. If you’re then dividing the resulting pocket eg for 2 planes then the 3” strip isn’t really going to be a problem (especially as you’re screwing not gluing). If you need to fix strips across the grain I’d...