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Had some from a mate who got a row of yews which were cut from along an old iron fence which the trees had grown around. The iron created some lovely purple staining in the wood.

Looking great. The pole lathe is one of my favourite tools and I feel far safer turning on one than I do with an electric lathe. Personally I have my tool rest far higher than you do. On both my lathes it is about the same height as the metal centres. I don't think it matters much, just feels...

Boiling is probably the most eco method. Sometimes a rub on glass with a 80grit loose abrasive does wonders and works well, especially if glazed and not cutting. This is good for square or triangular slips to sharpen up the corners. I always use the grit dry without any cutting fluid which just...

1 tablespoon of washing soda to 1 gallon of water and the Negative is attached to the tool. When all is done dry the tools immediately and lightly oil, if you do not, you will see the rust form before your eyes. Works great for augers and such like. Never use stainless steel as the anode, it...

Even blunt ones make excellent frame saw blades. I use end of life 100mm wide blades for making tools from especially riving push knives for making fan birds. They are great for scrapers as well.

WoodOwl do fantastic auger bits that long, as used by timber framers. I have a couple at around £80+ each. These really are the best I have ever used and comer very highly rated.

I have done similar, but they do offer protection, just imagine the 2 scenarios with and without gloves, I would rather be wearing these gloves than nothing.

Hindostan stone from Indiana. I quite like them. Do an internet search for more info, lots out there.

I asked them to give me a quote for a product they are distributers for, £2000 or so, I was expecting it to come in £500 cheaper than their quote. Asked for a discount as all they had to do was hold it for a few days before I picked it up. Absolutely no discount, no way. Went to another...

Thanks for that, some really great information from someone who knows his stuff.

I love these 8)

600x 600mm leds are great, now I am also using warehouse led lights and street light leds made from a hundred, or more, separate leds, and bright white and very bright. All sold on ebay.

Not a problem, especially if you understand the principles of sharpening saws. If you need to reset the teeth you will need a saw set and remember that a lot of bandsaw blades are set left, centre and right, not left and right like hand saws. I use a diamond file on top of each tooth, noting...

It is also a pain to sand. First off you think you have a perfect surface and as soon as a finish is put on you realise that you have done a crap job of sanding. Second yew is prone to heat checking or cracking from sanding and sand too hard or long and lots of little cracks appear.

I use a hammer or as it is also know a Manchester screwdriver, never had cam out. :lol: The Robertson seams to be ideal and one of the most sensible designs, never seen or used one. Such a shame its not widely available. I also have issues with hex and often need to replace or grind down allen...

Very expensive, to say the least. I would never pay that.

They seem to work just fine, and I would set them rather than sharpen

I have only ever used old bandsaw blades, of which I have plenty. Easy to drill holes through. They can be old and blunt and no good for the bandsaw but they work fine for frame saws. I have gone up to 3tpi 1inch saw blades. Not tried my ripper 1.1/4 2 tpi blades in a frame saw yet.

I would use stainless, but remember that they will probably never come out again without the head shearing off. Unless pre drilled and pre screwed.

Sounds good and it depends on how big they are. Oak can take years to dry, so if I have a big one I usually at least cut it in half and leave to dry. Dry somewhere out of the sun and wind, both are killers for too fast drying. I just leave and forget. Sycamore can stain and rot easily, so...