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Looks like Sweet Chestnut to me, but difficult to tell from this photo. If you put a small bit of wire wool on it and wet it, the wood will turn black.

I bought one from axminster, I think. Years ago and half the price, still going strong. Diamond Dressing Block Cheap diamond abrasives can be a complete waste of money. If it is fit for purpose it will work, if not landfill.

I made a board from slow grown ash 15 years ago for our wedding cake. It has been used every day since, not oiled, no finish, just washed and dripped dried. Never had any issue of illness or death from it.

Don't forget Meddings, for pillar drills. Meddings History - About Meddings Machine Tools

I usually start off by using the ultra thin superglue that wicks itself into the smallest hair line crack. I then proceed with thicker superglue and then fill any gaps with fine sawdust with the thin glue dribbled over it.

When you see medullary rays you know the wood is quarter sawn. This cut is usually the most stable and least likely to cup during its life, also often commands a premium price.

Tormek with diamond wheels are the best. Tormek is expensive but is undoubtedly the best. I have played around with various wet grinders and the Tormek does always come out on top for build quality, jigs that work properly and well thought out design which is being improved on every few years...

I offer two ways: First, just grind the end into a symmetric shape and fit into the handle. Second, heat the tang and hammer into shape. The ideal temp is cherry red to dark orange, and heat the metal up again as soon as it goes dull red. To reduce the chance of changing the temper of the body...

Remember that all wood will go grey with age. The woods will be either western red cedar (which is not a cedar) or sequoias, either will work.

Wood and water, I never mix the two unless they are cooking and eating treen. I would take up ceramics if soap dishes are your thing.

I use a fair bit, anything up to 5 to 6 inch left in the round in my workshop, standing upright. Larger stuff just split down the pith and left standing in workshop. make sure that anything over a couple of inches can have air circulating around the base other wise it will not dry properly and...

320 and 1000. Sometimes you just have to remove metal hence 300 ish plus 1000 for everyday touch ups. Plus another abrasive to polish and a strop

I like the veritas guide, but do most of my sharpening freehand and only use it to reset the bevels. Buy a wide coarse stone, the Shapton ones are very good, the glass backed ones. Final finishing can be done on abrasive films or your usual stones going slightly diagonal down the stone. With...

Definitely Yew, lots of tell tail signs.

Hi Nick, is your website down, the links here will not load and when searching in my browser for small workshop.co.uk nothing loads. Eager to read your article.

Sand, apply oil, such as Danish, with brush, wipe off and let dry. You may want another coat. No sanding in-between. This is the quickest way apart from a spray finish.

Mitre trimmer is essential. You need a smooth accurate cut surface on the joints. I then use a band to hold everything in place and hammer in V nails across the mitre joint. I have made hundreds this way.

Turn them now. The wood will move as it dries, but that is just the nature of green turned bowls and is a feature.

Some of mine are so soft that they can be filed, some are not and I use a grinding stone for die grinders, as said before a pillar drill works best. I always finish off with silicon carbide (wet and dry) wrapped around a dowel. Remember no bevel on the back.

Ever thought about sharpening them yourself? If they are too hard to sharpen with a file you could use a diamond feather edge file. I bought a cheap one off eBay which seems to be holding up surprisingly well for the price. The file works well on induction hardened teeth so there is no saw that...