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Is that based on the Titanic :) I'd go with the MR MDF as the edges will be easier to seal and there is no veneer to chip off. As for the painting, I'll leave that for others apart from saying that Morrells do a really good water based primer which sands really well - you can roller it on too.

Visually this works very well but you do have to make sure the bead and hinges match so get your hinges first before cutting the bead - been there!!!

Yes. The back of the door will be slightly narrower to allow it to open/close without requiring too big a gap on the face.

You can get around the pivoting issue by chamfering the side opposite the hinges, just not sure it would look right??

Yes, it's called Shou-sugi ban. There are also theories that it provided a degree of resistance to catching fire but I'm not (entirely) convinced? The protection it provides effectively comes from lowering the moisture content in the charred sections - the hydroxyl sites in the cellulose, where...

Looks like that will be worth a read. I bought The Fine Art of Cabinetmaking a few years ago but am only just reading it now!

Hi Richard - somewhere I have an extensive list of literature on the subject - just not sure where to start looking at the moment. You may have to be patient!!

Got it! - Shelf medicating :)

A week's worth!

I have the Tormek version and have no problem. Is the stop on the holder not machined accurately?

It has a baby brother..... American Black Walnut and Apple Birch....first coat on today

Hi Richard The point I was trying to make was that I wouldn't consider wood at 20% to be thought of as 'dry'. For many woods fsp is ~25%mc. There are two general types of wood decay wet rot and dry rot (ignoring soft rot for now). Wet rot does need a source of moisture to become established...

Thanks Custard. I do occaisionally sand through too far (I call my sander a thickness sander rather than a drum sander) but haven't had any problems with Titebond adhering. I try not to go through the outer layers now. I find the higher grades of birch ply are not needed - as the individual...

I edited that bit out !!

Edited to correct terminology. So long as the grain runs the same way on each panel there will be no issues with movement when you join the panels - it will all move as one. You would only have problems if you join a long-grain to a cross-grain (an end grain) - in that scenario you would have...

EDIT - the box is ~ 320mm long, 190mm wide and 130mm high. I use 18mm because I like the box to have a 'weighty' feel. For this size box I wouldn't go below 16mm but I also make smaller boxes using 12mm sides. I prefer birch ply over MDF for two reasons; there is variation in flatness and...

Hopefully the inspiration to give it a go?

Right you are then:)

That's pushing it!! There is nothing here that any moderately experienced woodworker couldn't do.

I was perhaps being too broad in what I was saying but the generally accepted safe level of moisture to prevent the initiation of fungal decay is <20%. Moisture content once decay is initiated is a different, and complicated matter. There are very few places in the world where wood will reach...