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Sometimes it's just easier to buy a new sander but check if your sander is compatible with other brands? The pads vary in price; Bosch ~£15 but Makita ~£25! Haven't bought others.

That just means you need a replacement pad - they don't last forever and are a common part for most sanders

Have you experienced any active worm in your planes - where there is frass? Also, a question for all the (vintage) plane-collectors; the few planes I have seen have all been beech - is that the predominant wood that was used?

As far as I know, wood needs to be below ~15% to halt re-infestation (according to this site). You could expect that moisture level in wood in an unheated, unsealed garage (dry but rain protected). The problem with (european) beech is that the sapwood isn't that discernible from the heartwood so...

Many moons ago there used to be a poster on here by the name of Scrit. He was a mine of information on old machinery. Just had a look and his postings are still here but he stopped posting in 2008.

The damp only makes it more likely that the eggs will develop and bore into the wood. The larvae can be in the dry wood for years.

Here is a quick guide for UK wood boring insects RTC Woodworm Guide

Only job I'd done where I thought they might be needed was on some sliding doors the client wanted but, in the end, the doors were fine!!

...but unnecessary. Most woodworm holes are from the insect boring out of the wood and it would have been growing there before the wood was processed. Not many insects can re-infest dry wood as it's too hard, unless it's too wet but that's another issue! (will have to look up the re-infesters as...

I've only read about them - never seen them or used them!!

If you want peace-of mind you can buy an insert that sits in a groove the length of the door (acts similar to a guitar trussrod) and can be tightened/loosened as needed to straighten a door. Can't remember where I've seen them either - Hafele and others do them. Not used them personally so...

As you say, I would make a jig and router them out with a dishing cutter. I would probably use a small forstner first though as this would give you the centre point to drill for the knob and also something to align the jig.

I've just had to watch that on fast-forward as the annoying commentary from Lee Mack was getting unbearable. It might be watchable without him?

A quick search brought up a company called NeoNickel who supply specialist alloys. My guess is that it refers to the metal used to cast the body????

Welcome to the forum. That looks like more-than-an-afternoon's work. I look forward to seeing it completed.

Is it logs or planks? Rule of thumb for air drying planks is 1year/inch thickness - sticker it up so you get air flow all around it. You will need to monitor it properly though for moisture content. If you have logs and you turn bowls aren't they generally rough-turned while green, sealed and...

Ah, I had something different in mind because you said you didn't have a compressor! Should be OK for short bursts but you might end up overworking the pump with too much use?

I knew someone sensible would provide a proper answer!! I learnt something new today.

Because 97mm would just be wrong! :)

Comment removed - earler post covered it!