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Have a look for Valchromat if you want a coloured board (MDF, but not MDF, according to their blurb!)

Thanks, it's nothing special - just a sturdy marking gauge but with a cutting blade. A bit Krenovian in so far as it's rough-shapen and finished sufficient to be useable. It's comfortable in the hand, which is why it's good to make something that suits you. Made from American Walnut (good...

Make the top and bottom as a framed panel with a rebated panel that sits flush (rather than fielded) so it can move. The shelves will just free-float on shelf pins - they will only move across the grain and can be fixed at the back or front (if needed?)

Well that would be a waste of time - everyone knows those tax people only do metalwork!!! :)

These classification are largely based on ground-contact trials and can be taken as advisory if the wood is unlikely to become sufficiently wet to initiate decay, something not always easy to account for?

From a preservation perspective it is classed as non-durable. Given the OP says the chairs will be out in all weather the legs will become susceptible to decay as they are more likely to wick water from the ground. Ash is OK to use where it only gets intermitently wet (and subsequently dries) or...

Only problem with Ash is that it isn't durable..........and don't get sucked into the air dried vs kiln dried debate. The wood will acclimatise to it's environment.

Thanks Ian. Go on, give it a go - you know you want to!!

You're safe up there for now but they are moving north slowly!

That would be an impressive skill to pull off. The veneer is only 0.6mm so it's easy enoung to blend the interface when you sand (carefully). Having the wood underneath also gives you a bit of leeway should you bee too aggresive - ideally you would string with the same wood as the veneer but I...

It's the equivalent of stop-frame animation :) and if you haven't got patience it will drive you mad!! Very satisfying though.

It's a trade off! You need some space for the glue to form a film between any mating surfaces but not so much that the glue becomes a gap-filler (which most wood glues aren't designed to be).

You're right, it's not. I normally do woodwork for the hospitality industry but since lockdown has disrupted that sector I've been developing this as a potential alternative. There have been lots of rejects over the last few months but the learning curve has been invaluable!! The veneer matching...

I get all my hardwoods from Chilworth Timber - based in Milton Common, just off M40 - very friendly to deal with.

Hi Dave Yes, it give a better surface on the edge for gluing. I now make all my boxes with a 2-3mm recess all round. This gives you the option of adding stringing after you've done the veneering (traditional) without having to machine a rebate on a finished box - just clean the edge with the...

I just use Titebond II. The trick is to aviod using too much because you have to clean it up. I try to trim any veneer I've glued down within an hour of the glue setting. That way you can remove the trimmed veneer and the glue with a sharp chisel without damaging the ply substrate. You are then...

Thank you.

Perfect opportunity to give it a try. If you're worried about gluing the veneer in the wrong place, using the wrong piece in the wrong position, gluing it upside down etc, etc, don't be - that will never happen, trust me ;)

OK folks, as promised here is how this box was made. For those with a very short attention span, look away now!!! I'm going to skip over the making of the box-maybe something for another WIP. EDIT - the box is ~ 320mm long, 190mm wide and 130mm high. For this box I used 18mm...

Just been reading up on this. They (OSHA) do refer to our own HSE data (Sheet 30) on Toxic Woods but they seem to have reached the pragmatic decision that being too specific about individual species woud be unworkable - better to look at the problem of wood 'dust' in general.