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please! (hammer)

You didn't! Hope the plane turns out well...

Whatever.

If it works for a scrub plane bade wouldn't it work just as well for any edge tool? No. The point is that it is easier to round something with the guiding hand palm down and flat, so it would be inclined to round straight blades, but it makes rounding blades very easy and even. It's to do...

BTW in the video he puts the plane iron vertically. For me it works better if you put it at an angle so that you hold the stone horizontally....

Well try it before dismissing it, it works and its much quicker and simpler — if you're not careless

If you use the sharpening method in the LN video where you put the blade in a vise and bring the stone to the blade, (which is a very good way) be careful as it's easy to cut yourself badly if you hold the stone with fingers in vicinity of the blade. Writing with a plaster on my thumb from...

Thanks for these responses, all very helpful. I think, Steve, you're right, 6x3 is perhaps too big. I was thinking of future proofing it so that it could cope with anything I would ever be likely to do, but in practice 4 x 2'6" would be more manageable, and probably as big is I will...

I use a coping saw on even quite fine dovetails — If they are small I take two cuts, one diagonally across which opens it up without risking damage to the edges, then cut across the shoulder. I find it pretty quick because of not needing to worry about the blade snapping, and the aggressive...

Great, that's the sort of thing. This morning I've come across another that looks nice - the harmonic series ie 1 1/2 1/3 1/4 1/5 1/6 1/7 So that's: Fibonacci Playing around with powers Multiplying each product by x (where x is greater than 1) Harmonic series Any more to play with?

Whatever. If that was all I wanted to do I wouldn't have needed to ask the question. I'm interested in ways that go beyond the basic maths I already have ie functions which when plotted do not lead to straight line, but perhaps something like this: * * * -* -* ---* -----* ---------*...

It's a great book as he goes into detail about the finer points — not just 'cut this, sand that'. He knows the sort of process needed to do very high standard work and takes you through it. I learned a lot from it. My copy is five or six years old, not sure if it is the new edition or the old...

I like that! What was the problem with thicknessing the sycamore?

Probably worth trying to get at least a little one-to-one tuition if you can possibly find and afford, on the sharpening and basic tool use. Even good videos can't show you everything, and the danger of teaching yourself is that 'you don't know what you don't know'. A decent teacher can save...

Thanks for your responses, That combined bench/press is genius. If I didn't already have a bench.... This is what I had in mind: Probably about 3' x 6' The idea is that the square sections bolt into the bottom platen (or maybe the platen could just sit loose on top), then it all comes...

No, you use loose zinc or aluminium plates, heat in oven, and place on top of the veneer Will post sketch later....

Because I do a certain amount of hot hide glue veneering/inlay/marquetry with sawn veneer that is too thick to hammer so need to use heated plates. Doesn't work in bag press - by the time the panel is manouvered in and the bag sealed and the air pumped out the plates have cooled down....

I'm starting to think about making a traditional screw veneer press of a reasonable size which would be inexpensive and could be taken apart easily for storage. I'm wondering would torsion boxes would work for the platens - would they be stiff enough? Never made a torsion box so no experience...

Coping saw is the traditional choice, for what that's worth. That's what I use, never thought of using anything else, but thinking about it now I would say that sturdiness of the blade (less likely to snap) and faster cutting would be the advantage for me. I cut a few mm above the shoulder...

If it was me I would get a number 4 first, then a block, then a 5, then a 7, and leave it at that. Reason being that you can do anything with a small plane at a pinch, but the bigger ones aren't great for smoothing as they can't get into low spots. All would be Bevel down because you don't...