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Re. contracts: for smaller things this can be quite informal, and may be more or less implicit in the email exchange that leads up to the order. Bigger jobs need something more formal. I also take a deposit for any job over a few hundred pounds, usually between 25 and 50 percent. I try to...

On second thoughts I'm wrong about Malloof. He makes his chairs to measure for each client, so essentially he is working to commission, not selling a pre-produced product. The wave stool chap is a genuine example though.

Ok I've just thought of an exception. I believe this chap http://www.posture-chair.co.uk/ started his business making his chairs and selling them at shows and by mail order (online now obviously). So one way is to have a very original idea that can be easily batch produced and has a clear...

By all means have a look at Betty Norbury's book but do remember that a) she had plenty of money to start with (so I've heard) and b) it was hard enough when she was writing but the economics of the proposition are even worse now. My assumption, based on your previous posts, is that you are...

Really very difficult indeed to do this. Most cabinet makers will tell you that making on spec is a shortcut to bankruptcy. Reason is that you have to sell the piece for several times the amount that a similar piece will cost from a big manufacturer (usually based in china, with low wages and...

Just wondering if anyone knows of a company who sharpen TCT bandsaw blades and whose collection area covers West Sussex? The only people I know who sharpen these are Allied Tooling, who are great, but don't collect from where I am.

You want to watch your fingers on that!

I think a lot of people use epoxy with pigments for this sort of thing? I would have thought that would have looked better and lasted longer than what you suggest. Not done it myself though.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-22094279

That's interesting, never thought to do that, where would you go to get them tanalised?

Sorry, xy, not sure what you mean!

+1, this really is a case where they need to spend a bit more, if you can't find tanalised in the size you need.

I have, though not a draw-bored one — they're usually wedged. And I've also seen many examples of single tenons in thick stock where the shoulders have opened....

It will probably last, but at that thickness it will leave scope for the shoulders to open over time, which is unsightly if nothing else. Most antique furniture (and I speak as a fan) was built to fairly indifferent standards, same as today, and for the same reasons — cabinet makers wanted to...

I have a Fein (mine is a slightly earlier model). Had it for five years and use it all the time; it's still going strong. I like it a lot and would highly recommend it. Personally I wouldn't pay festool money for an extractor unless I had all the festool gear — it's all supposed to work as...

Thanks all, some good suggestions here. I've decided that I'm not going to invest in a milling machine now, too expensive, too self indulgent, which leaves hand options. Casting sounds interesting, but I think too much of a learning curve, and also I imagine would be too slow for this as I...

Looking good!

Yes it depends entirely on which book you read!

I was taught that max shoulder width on a tenon should be 5/8", and if it is going to be more than that with a single tenon you should do a double. That's what I stick to. The reasoning behind this is that on thick stock a double is stronger and longer lasting. The combined tenon width is...

Well of course I do :D But then I've resisted for several years, in spite of several good potential excuses along the way..... It does need to be very tidy, do you think the solder would be very visible once it was all neatened up and polished?