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My local builder's merchant issues their own disclaimer on these veneered "external" doors - haven't got one in front of me but says something like they can't issue any sort of warranty if the door isn't installed within a porch or under a canopy.......

record power BS350 with rikon guide upgrade and tuf blades. Brilliant piece of kit, with all the instant access advantages the thread started off with. Bought for a project 3 years ago. Wish I'd got one 30 years ago... I tend to keep a fairly wide blade in it - can't recall if its 3/4 or 5/8...

have a look at AQ109 (QL3011) which is what I use. It only needs a 3mm groove - no recess.

I think it depends whether you are replacing existing box sash windows or making a sash window to fit in to a standard opening. If you make a spring balance window for a recessed reveal you will also have to sort out the space where the boxes used to be....

Hi - there's a thread here Machinery Advice - Spindle Moulder/Tenoner and Bandsaw or Table Saw with the dims of the ones I made. I used Accoya from Arnold Laver - expensive but easy to work with and very stable for external joinery. Seals and beads from reddiseals, some hardware from mighton...

I have a separate router permanently mounted, so can't really comment with any direct experience. I think if whatever project you are working on needs both table and hand held routers as you work through it, you are best getting an additional router. If table use is very occasional then perhaps not.

Trend CraftPro CRTMK3. I've used mine a lot and it's great. Not sure about mounting the Makita - you would need to check - I have a Trend T11 in mine that allows above table height adjustment and fairly easy access to the collet nut.

These are the dims of the ones I made with a bandsaw, thicknesser, mitre saw, router table and domino

As the boxes themselves are relatively simple construction, it might be easier just to remake the whole window to incorporate decent weights. You can then pump your sashes to say 56mm which is enough to take a 24mm DGU.

For making several sash windows my suggestion is band saw, router table, sliding mitre and domino. It's tricky to just replace the sashes in a box sash window with DG because you will increase the weight significantly. Many SG windows are 3mm. DG will be 2 x 4mm. All the DG windows and doors I...

Personally that all looks like a bodge. No way you should have all that timber jacking the ridge beam off the wall. Could have used a high-span roofing system e.g. https://www.clearamber.com/brochures/1641915538ALUKAPSS_TECHNICALBROCHURE_V8.03.pdf and fitted the ridge beam directly to the masonry

Suppliers of SEMCO Teak Products what I use.

I have water mist extinguisher. These are relatively new but suitable for all fire types Water Mist Fire Extinguishers - For Most Types of Fire

Track saw for this job all day long. Quick, accurate and you can take a midges wotsit off if you need to.

The T11 is around at discounted prices in 110v. Yellow bricks are cheap - but you might need a 32A outlet version. I'm not sure how you get over the no-volt release switch. But £224 for a T11 is a good price Trend T11ELK 110V Variable Speed Plunge Router 1/2in

My kit is nothing special - this Universal Sprayer W 690 FLEXiO - Paint spray system | WAGNER I've found the type of paint makes a huge difference. Teknos aquaprimer and aquatop sprayed on to timber goes on really nicely, straight from the can, even though it is quite thick - it just seems to...

spraying exterior render? you better make sure you have no neighbours within couple hundred yards!..... Can't really help on kit. I use a wagner HVLP set for spraying doors and window frames etc, but I sheet up in my workshop and the overspray still goes everywhere.

With that T&G boarding, whatever you do in your nice dry workshop is don't fasten them all together tight. In my experience T&G boards in whitewood will expand/contract widthways 1-2mm each depending on humidity. Also, rather than paint I would be thinking about a spirit based preservative (I...

Just finished some doors and windows in accoya

make a trenching stop for the sliding mitre