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Vacuum and Flow need to be considered together. You get maximum vacuum with zero flow (e.g. when you have your hand over the pipe end), and maximum flow with zero vacuum. Picking stuff up requires suitable air velocity, which is why e.g. a garden vac will pick up leaves but not gravel - lot's of...

Isn't that the truth - my other half calls it the "mm police". I fuss about things that to most people are apparently invisible. Which leads me on to the idea that trades should be "certified" as discussed a few posts back. I disagree - all it would do is drive out all the old hands that really...

Yes you can - smaller hose = faster airspeed = able to pick up heavier waste. Bigger hose = slower airspeed = able to pick up bulkier waste. Collapsing the drum is a factor of the max vacuum the unit can produce. - Remember max vacuum at zero flow, and max flow at zero vacuum.

If it's not too large, for a shed I would just use regular red/white softwood and carefully pick the pieces for reasonably knot free and good grain. I've been using Accoya recently for external joinery which is knot free and reasonably straight grained - it machines well. It is a little brittle...

If you are jointing boards, IMHO the best way to get an absolutely perfectly straight edge is to use a tracksaw. Perfectly straight every time. I realise that's not very helpful if you don't have one....:devilish:

work in progress

If on to smooth surface, a grab adhesive. If on to a rough/gappy surface, then foam adhesive. Modern high performance adhesives are designed to do the jobs they are designed for. Why wouldn't you? They glue aircraft together these days! Used properly, they won't be coming off, and no nail/screw...

Y. I just realised what you meant! - I haven't ever used them, so no idea. Ebay & Axminster seem to have some smaller quantities available.

They don't just come in systainers, but you do have to buy a full box of whatever size you need. I think if I only needed 8 in a size I otherwise never used, I would plane up a batten and make a few

multitool with metal blade and cut through the frame fixings. It'll come out. You may not have to remove all the glass, just those panes to get access to new fixings.

When I have to do some moulding that I don't have cutters for quite often an old wooden hollow plane(s) comes out (I have 3-4 I use fairly regularly). One I use often was made around 1788. I smile every time I use it - it pre-dates Trafalgar!

Do remember that a dull blade may wander. For accurate cuts use a sharp blade. On bevels this can make a significant difference.

I would remove those strips first. It's far easier to trim the plaster than cut rebates in architraves. A multitool is the best too for this. Run the multitool vertically down the plaster in a line where the outer edge of the arch will be. Now run the multitool in horizontally with the blade...

The difference between using say 4x2 or 5x2 across the existing and loft legs, is that timbers will spread the load across several joists when you walk on them whereas loft legs will concentrate the load at that point. If the existing joists are strong enough to board, and you just need height...

I echo what @sams93 says. As a cheap thicknesser it's OK, as a jointer/planer it's fairly carp - the tables are on the flimsy side and easy to pull out of alignment. However, I've put loads and loads and loads of timber through mine - it's a bit modified. I ditched the horrible plastic guard...

If you pop down to your local builders merchant, you'll probably find they sell basic window profiles. mine does Window Section - Timber Mouldings | C&W Berry

so do I. I have made a few pairs of doors in accoya now, and I won't go back to anything else. Redwood that is commonly available in my experience just isn't stable enough, whereas accoya comes very straight as "rough sawn" and takes only a couple of passes through a thicknesser to get really...

Put the archs on. Set the tops level - this will be what the eye sees - the contrast colour line to the wall. No-one will notice the heads are out of line.

This. I have the BS350S and have made similar modifications to @MikeK. Record blades it comes with are OK, but Tuffsaw blades are better. The standard blade guides are OK. I upgraded mine to similar to the Sabre version - if you can justify the higher price, get the sabre 350. The standard...

If you only need a smidgen more, then rather than use an extension you could use a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter. I use one in my router table all the time for 1/4" cutters because the adapter gives me another 5mm or so (mine is one that has a lip all the way round so gains 2-3mm even pushed right home -...