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Fair 'nuff, but I am now interested why it is preferable to rebuild a suspended floor when the void is obviously shallow and below current spec for suspended timber floor. rather than put in an insulated concrete slab - I expect one good reason might be because ventilation to other areas might...

I'd repost your query here https://community.screwfix.com/forums/b ... talk.2004/ Personally, that looks like a very shallow underfloor space which is always going to be difficult to ventilate. If you insulate, the joists underneath will be colder and less likely to dry from roomheat. In my...

+1 for not using 45mm - I'd increase the thickness. FWIW I have recently (last summer) made some exterior french doors in Accoya and over the winter they haven't moved a mm - Also the sash windows I have made for the same house project have now been in 2 winters and they also haven't shifted at...

Agree, it's a better thicknesser than planer. Personally, I wouldn't bother. The tables and table fixings are rubbish. I bought mine as a cheap thicknesser to do a particular job - extended the thicknesser bed, threw away the rubbish plastic guard and made a new one out of ply, (tie wrapped the...

Over the last 2 years I have made 7 sash windows and a set of inward opening patio doors (56mm thick) from Accoya, and it is brilliant for external joinery - it doesn't seem to move at all. As others have said my experience is it machines well, but is brittle - I can understand hinge jamb splits...

I've recently DIY made 7 DG sash windows for a house project in Accoya. One of the big window companies who specialises in this area posts up all their cad drawings which were a good start - mumford and something :lol: :lol: as far as I am concerned they are repairs not new as some parts of...

Here's mine............

I bough the titan planer thicknesser for a single job new for £150. The planer is terrible - tables not robust or parallel. However, with a long plywood deck added, the safety micro tie-wrapped and a home made ply safety guard, I put about £1200 quids worth of accoya through the thicknesser...

Have you considered what you will be using it for. I thought for ages between the 500 and 700. In the end went for the 700 which uses 8 - 14mm dominoes. The 8 is small enough for small framing/joining boards and the 14 is great for framing doors. Maybe the smaller sizes of the 500 work for you...

I really can't believe you are thinking about filler. This is such an easy job. Take out the two top mountings. Cut them short. Re attach them so the base plate is now away from the wall and outside the dado. Cut two round plinths for the mount plate to sit on, painted white. place into the...

you'll prob have to loosen the base mountings to get some wiggle room, and when I cut my top mountings short on one of these rads some time ago (to get it to sit closer to the wall) I seem to remember I used an angle grinder because the chrome plate is hard.

Looks similar to the rad I have just fitted. I think the wall mounts are separate pieces held with grub screws to the rad? If they are the same as mine, you can cut the wall mount pieces short, pulling them away from the wall. If you make a couple of neat plinths to fit over the existing dado...

When I suggested coach screws earlier I was referring to https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/pro ... lsrc=aw.ds not just a "few screws". Coach screws are designed to fix large timbers together and are immensely strong. They create a tight fixture which is perfectly in shear. A bolt in an...

That's not cupping when the boards get a little dished across the board - that's a not flat floor. +1 for Matts suggestion. Sister the joists to get them flat fastening together with bolts or coach screws. Don't think you'd need grippers if you use coach screws. (but you do need a powerful...

I've just finished a house full of 10" victorian ogee skirtings,cutting the scribes on the...........pull :lol: :lol:

I find the easiest way to get a perfectly straight edge on boards I want to joint is to run my track saw down the edge.

If it's the same as my bosch sliding mitre that screw bears on a little plate that swings in and out. When pushed in the screw passes between the fork and there is no depth stop at all. When pulled out you use the screw to set a depth limit.

It isn't a case of RTFM is it? The bosch sliding mitres have an adjustable depth stop on the LHS which you push in and out to either engage or disengage.................

If you are going to use accoya, then IMO you have to plan to machine everything, and not use hand tools. It machines well, but is brittle, and chips and spelches easily. It also drags out on the grain easily when hand planing, and will chip if you knock an end grain corner. My experience is it...

I have been making windows for an edwardian house restoration. I have had conversations around my diy windows with my BCO while he's been on site, (because we also have an extension ongoing with new windows (not made by me)). Didn't seem that interested that I was making myself, although...