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Tada. Works perfectly.

If you cut curves a lot, the set on one side of the blade can be damaged quicker than the other, which will cause drift. It's a good idea to have a dedicated blade for straight cuts where avoiding drift is important. Also if you've set up the guide bearings incorrectly at any point and run the...

So it seems this is the reason coping sleds are a thing. Guess I have to make a jig to start making my jigs. Jigcepton.

I have a T-slot cutter and want to put a grid-like pattern of t-slots on a piece of MDF for jig making reasons. For the shorter axis I'm using a mitre gauge rather than the fence to 'crosscut' the channels into the MDF. However, the rotational force of the cutter causes the MDF to get pulled...

Just don't let anyone else use it. Ever. They'll put a kink in it before you can blink.

I recently bought the Laguna Supermax 16-32. It's pricier than the similarly specced alternative at Axminster, but the Axminster reviews constantly mention what a pain changing the paper is. I had a look in-store and the machine just looked kind of flimsy for something that's meant to be a...

Alternating sides, no time to stabilise, but it wasn't a massive change in thickness. The thicknessed piece, which I stopped ripping, is still completely true 24 hours later. It's only the thin-ish offcuts that are springing about. It's not happening each time I try.

If you buy them from Axminster, you'll see the recommended accessories on the right are all Leigh guide bush adapters. You'll probably be able to find one for your Makita among them.

Aha! I actually had weird woolly chips thrown at me by the table saw and thought "that's weird for maple"...

How common is it that kind of stuff makes it to a timber supplier? Do the suppliers care when they source it?

I wanted to batch make a bunch of table saw runners for various jigs out of some maple. I thicknessed some maple down to the same width as the mitre slots using a drum sander, everything was perfect, the wood stayed completely true. I start ripping a bunch of strips off on the table saw, about...

Other side was fine. The marks were up to around 3mm deep and eventually planed away. I dug one out with a chisel and it went clear through the chip, so wasn't simply on the surface. Hadn't heard of bruising before, which I guess could be more than skin deep?

Huh, I hadn't considered it could be figuring, which is funny because I've got a bunch of "5A" flamed and birdseye maple. I guess that's what the non-sellable stuff looks like!

If you have a table saw, use a jointing jig. If not, set the crown guard on the P/T the same as if you were planing a wide surface - ie. full coverage of the blade, workpiece goes under. You should still be able to apply pressure to fence before and after the cutter block unless it's a really...

I just jointed (not thicknessed - ie. no rollers) the surface of some maple and there was this weird pattern inside. It's not on the surface (chiseled away a bit and it's still there) and required about 2-3mm worth of passes to get rid of it. Any ideas what it is or where it came from? It kind...

I'm tempted to say maple/sycamore based on the grain pattern and the light colour breaking through on the left. You should plane down some of the saw marks to see the real colour which will be the biggest clue.

Surely if whatever joint being used is cut square then when the gap is properly closed (clamps) it's going to be square. If it's not square and you nudge it into square (or use one of these clamping squares) then the gap is going to open up...

I have a different version of an Axminster planer (what's called the Craft AC250PT after the rebrand...) and while my fence itself is actually flat, the mechanism allowing for squareness adjustment is a bit iffy. It seems pretty solid to the touch, but when planing heavier pieces of wood, you...

Just got a quote from Sydenhams in Bristol: £135 incl. VAT for 15mm B/BB...

I just used a sheet of birch as a tool wall... once it was up, I realised I probably could have used construction grade and covered it in felt or something... At this rate, soon the board will be worth more than the tools hanging on it.