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Surforms DO work, and work well on it for straightening out dodgy cuts.

Have you actually tried a surform on it? They work a lot better than you'd imagine, far better than shaving bits off with a handsaw, handsaws tend to rip the silver foil face too.

😅😅 Sure, if I didn't have my tracksaw, the amount of work I'd get done everyday would more than half. I do have one systainer, it's the one the saw got delivered in and hasn't been put back in since 😅.

I've just cut a piece of 50mm kingspan, cuts in approx 1/2 a second with a tracksaw and no dust at all. You're stuck in the stone age.

Another thing you're forgetting is marking out, by the time you mark either end, drop a straight edge on and mark a line to cut, you may aswell just mark either end drop the track on and make the cut

As for moving it around, you cut on the stack of boards so you're actually moving materials less. Tracksaws are not heavy, don't know where youve got that from. Cutting a bevel makes it even more work because then you have to flip the board around for the next cut and cutting a straight bevel...

A tracksaw helps, if you cut the first 50mm with a tracksaw then cut right through with a handsaw you do get a straighter cut. The labourers normally get this job with us, so trying to get them to cut in a straight line is hard work. We find the extra time spent using the tracksaw is worth it...

I've used a plastic surform before to tidy up rough edges, it works surprisingly well. Wear a mask and goggles though, it's horrible stuff

The overflow looks like 15mm pushfit, I haven't seen a weird elbow like the top one though, could it be like a non return elbow fitted the wrong way round? I would stop the water filling the tank, disconnected the overflow pushfit at the second elbow with a bucket underneath and make sure water...

CT1 would be perfect for fixing the sink to the wall and for fixing the sink to the brackets. I'd recommend the CT1 spray stuff to go with it to help you get a good finish on it too. As for screws you want brown plugs and some nice fat screws 5.0 or 6.0 probably 50-60mm in length. I wouldn't use...

Removed the quote so I dont get in trouble with the boss.....

Sorry just realised that £21.60 was 12mm, the 18mm was £30 inc vat.🙈 That's what I get for checking my emails before 7am 😆

Just bought 20 sheets of 18mm MRMDF for £21.60 inc vat each from Travis Perkins. Not bought any 6mm in a while though so not sure of price for that.

Drill a hole through a piece of ply with your forster bit to use the ply as a guide, then grind the point off the bit as others have said

A good way of cutting the bottom angle is to use a track saw, with an electric plane it is doable but a bit more difficult to get right

I use frame fixings, probably something around 120mm, then any gaps between the two outer studs and masonry I fill with expanding foam. 5x100s to screw the studs together. If you're plastering the whole wall, best way is to set the stud so the plasterboard finished flat with the existing stone...

Those legs looks pretty funky, are they any different the other way up? When I have covered dining tables with toughened glass in the past I've just used clear rubber bumpers, think 3M made the last ones I used

Should have listened to the advice on here and not bothered. I think you're asking too much to get a dead flat top, but 1.5mm is a lot, are you sure your straight edge is flat? I've had the same saw for a couple of months and I have to say it's brilliant, I haven't ever felt the need to check...

Fit new frames? Is the 3/4" out of plumb just on one of the legs of the frames or is it on both? Are the tops level?

If you do that, how do sort where the skirting joins the architrave as the skirting would be sticking out? Nailing strips on is the best way to do. I just rip down pse on my tablesaw no problem.