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I use multifix and 18 gauge brads on mdf skirting, the same on solid wood skirting on stud walls and then use concrete screws on solid wood skirting on solid walls. 15mm forstener bit to countersink the head then cut wooden plugs to cover it.

In future just use spirit levels and a tape measure to set the linings. The trouble you're going to have is even if you pack the hinge side out, the latch side of the lining is still going to be uneven. I would take the linings out, cut them down and refit. It's the only way you're going to be...

I use Advent 5m tapes, normally cost under a fiver but last a reasonable amount of time, I normally lose them before they break.

If you can't find any o causes, hack off the plaster, tank the wall with a waterproofing slurry, build it out with renovating plaster then skim coat over the top.

Hi Mark, any chance you can update the list so we can see what's left? Thanks Owen

How about using a piece of L shaped timber moulding over it instead, would avoid it cracking in future and painted white like the ceiling it wouldn't look out of place.

How can anyone think this is a serious post :ROFLMAO:

https://www.mightonproducts.com/products/sash-window-hardware/sash-fasteners/quadrant-fasteners Won't they work?

Spirit level and a pencil is quicker than moving a laser about for each stud

You'll just have to trench a bigger one down to the size you need

If you need to get rid of the soil, grab lorrys are normally cheaper than a skip. Just put some old ply down on the front drive and make a pile ready for them to collect

I've got the red handled clamps above and they're really decent. I believe I bought them from Ali express for cheap

You can't do kitchen worktop joints with a spindle moulder though 😆

I dunno if it would help but you could try a bearing guided flush trim bit on a router

Generally upto M20 you would drill a hole 2mm bigger than the anchor, over M20 is a very large fixing and I wouldn't expect a DIYer to be using fixings that big.

The trouble with a screw is once the resin is set you can't tighten it afterwards. I've used a lot of resin for holding joist wallplates etc to walls, this is how I do it... Drill hole through timber 2mm bigger than the stud you're using with a flat bit. Drill hole in masonry 2mm bigger than...

I always use it like the picture, that's the way my dad taught me

Damn too slow, can I have second dibs please..

Looks to me like they've cut the glazing bars to the width from house wall to conservatory glass wall horizontally without considering the extra length from the slope of the roof

If I can't get them out with a stanley blade or pin, I just stick a plaster over it leave it a day or so and they normally come out on their own.