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If the old plaster on your walls is sound could you not just blue grit it and skim over? It will kill suction completely and give you longer to lay up, a big help if you are inexperienced and labouring for yourself. The problem with plastering is, without a labourer, there isnt much let up for...

OK if timber locks but IMO standard screws are the wrong fastening for this job, the force compresses joints at both ends, which hopefully are mortice and tenon ( in which case you dont really need screws) but if you do not have a M+T here then you are trying to stop the diagonal brace from...

judging by the framing you opening is only around 2m, I doubt you'd see much deflection in 3 timbers bolted together, glue them and/or used toothed washers to be belt and braces but i dont think it will be an issue

as above graff city are a good supplier and you can buy a variety pack that will cover most flow rates and cap styles, this being said its worth noting if your nozzles are male or female, you can buy both types for a paint can but the wrong type will be useless

Whilst there are some great points for both sides and we all come to this conversation from different walks of life I must say most opinions ive read on the previous 4 pages seem fairly disconnected from the reality of contemporary uk drug culture. I whole heartedly agree that cannabis is a...

i hadnt really seen a higher resolution image as above, original post seem low res to me but i have seen alot of generated images (my friends have some running jokes they now illustrate using this tech) and instantly got the gut feeling it was AI, but now just in the cropped example above, his...

original image looks very AI generated to me, hands are usually a give away.

ignore the milwaukeee and stick with dewalt there is no sense in mixing battery platform, the dewalt is not the best multi tool by a long shot (neither is a milwaukee 12v for that matter) but it has a feature ive not seen on any other multi tool, variable speed trigger. multi tools are great and...

hi Glynne thanks for your reply, probably going to spring for the digital version so dont hold out for me. thanks again, Sam

Hi glynne is there a price for the trend gauge?

If the filler isnt required to do much other than look the part you may have some luck with soft waxes used to repair wood, many types out there, i use briwaxs offering to fill brad holes in oak skirting and architrave, you get a wide variety of colours/ shades. its not structural but good for...

usualy with a kitchen a decor panel will sit down the side of a cabinet down to the floor which would terminate the plith and form a return below the unit from the infill back to the plinth, without a decor you could just mimic this return at the bottom of your filler panels to close any gap...

Firstly the paint you want off the shelf is zinsser perma white, its great antifungal, expensive and thin but does the job. alternatively you can mix borax (banned but available online) into standard paints to make them antifungal. Bleach does not kill mould it just discolours it, most mould...

I have the makita, its a decent saw, have no real complaints, I have gone wayyy off heavy miter saws on site but mine sits on a bench and yours shall too by the sound of it. The makita has the bevel adjustment at the front which is awesome in my opininon and yes the rails are front mounted, IN...

justa quicky, when you're checking for plumb check twice and swap your level end for end to make sure the vial is accurate, I only mention this as your write up is showing the jambs to be 15mm and 11mm out plumb respectively but the width top and bottom only being 1mm different I would be...

100% remove existing and start with new lining, removing the old shouldn't be too bad, either cut the old lining, ( if you cut at an angle, for arguments sake 45 degrees, it will make removing a lot easier than a square cut) if the nails are being a bugg*r you should be able to get a hacksaw...

couldn't you just tie some cheap copper wire to a tennis ball and send it on the maiden voyage of the system, attach it to an earth pike and any static would be negated? just don't forget to tie the other end to something first :ROFLMAO: If we're really going OTT on the health and safety...

At the end of the day any masonry is not water proof, modern masonry walls are only impenetrable by moisture by employing a specific series of dpc's and ventilation to keep moisture away from an isolated inner skin of masonry. the only way you are going to keep a single layer of masonry IE a...

Do you need a brick course at all? are the edges of your slab going to be above grade? if so and you have a decent clearence I would do away with the brick course and lay the plate for your wall on dpc and bolt it down into the slab itself, lap the dpc up the back of the wall and down the face...

A couple of pints beforehand I will have a crack at it on my tod :ROFLMAO: