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When i was checking my old Makita saw I was using Woodpeckers squares and I have a Moore & Wright Engineers' Square that I keep in a draw and only use as a reference to check the other squares are actually square. I use the calculation methods in the Festool Kapex manual PDF to check the square...

@JKM Thanks for taking the time to provide all that info and take the measurements, it's really helpful. Glad you're pleases with the saw. Sounds like the cut quality is excellent like my KS 120 and the tracksaw.

Yes, it works really well.

Thanks for the advice. That was pretty much my experience with the Makita that i used to have. Could never get it to cut square and stay square. Moving to a Kapex was a massive improvement.

Had lunch with my Dad today and I had a look at his workshop. Where it’s going to sit, the workbench is 53cm deep so would need something that would fit on that. I know I can look at the listed dimensions but it’s hard to know what they are measuring between on the front to back.

The DeWalt DWS774 does look nice and very compact. I hadn’t realised from photos that it was actually a slider. I really would prefer one with trenching facility though. But it’s on the list to consider. Thanks. Budget could go up to £600/700 and it will be static in a workshop.

Yeah, I have Hikoki cordless nail guns which are great. Maybe the Evolution mitre saw is better but the metal chop saw I have is definitely built to a price. Will have a look but I think they're all rear slide.

The Narex Richter Chisels are nice as are Ashhley Iles. And i was quite tempted by the new Benchdogs adjustable square. Of those three I'd probably go for the trig jig square.

Looking to treat my Dad to a CSMS as he's had a rough time with his health recently and he'd like to get into a bit of woodwork, making bird boxes, other small items, maybe some furniture and just general DIY. Looking for something accurate and simple to operate that stays in alignment - I used...

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think as @John Brown says, maybe my infeed and outfeed are not fully aligned so I'm going to spend some time checking that. I do have a tracksaw so can joint that way but setting 90deg on the Festool TS55 is a bit fussy and I assumed that this would be a...

That's an interesting approach. I think tomorrow i shall check if the fence is perfectly straight without the spacer and then go from there. Thanks everyone for the thoughts so far. This is why i keep thinking about that iTech 260 planer/thicknesser!

Pretty much. Those lines may just be there because of the thickness of timber i normally use and the jessem guides pulling it into the fence? One thing that confuses me is that if i set the cutter so that it is not aligned with the outfeed fence, but closer to the infeed, it deosn't butt up...

do you mean the stock guide? at the moment i'm just using the one on the outfeed side.

My micro adjustment is a tap with a deadblow hammer!

Just tried that and i get a gap at the leading edge. When i removed the fence pieces i notice there were some fragments of phenolic from the fence edge and screw holes which may have been messing with the fence so I've sanding those flush.

Ok, just tried that and i end up with a slightly convex bump in the last 1/3 of the board

The outfeed fence is offset by the aluminium inserts that came with the fenceThe gap does not appear on the infeed fence. The rollers do toe in. I'll check alignment of the outfeed fence to the infeed fence, thanks. *edit* fences seem to be in alignment.

Thanks Peter. I'm trying to set it up so that the cutter just kisses the straight edge as you suggest. Just did a test joint and it's better but still slightly concave. Using a Jessem stock guide on the outfeed fence.

Thanks @Spectric. Would you use any featherboards or the stock guides or just hands?

Do you push it against the outfeed fence? Would you use the stock guides? Yes the cutter is aligned with the outfeed fence - as close as I can get it. Just had a thought - a top bearing cutter should make it easier to align the fence to the bearing rather than guessing where the outer most bit...