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A close up way to do it if you have a small printer like me, is to run off detail drawings of just the parts you need to mark out, say top view and profile, slice through the drawing and use a marking knife to mark off all the lines you need from the paper direct on to the wood. I just prick...

Yes, sorry - might be cross purposes here. All I'm saying is that rods were common practice in my job. What I meant about precise drawing skills is that you could not hand over a sloppy drawing to a maker. You would get murdered.

Possibly because once CAD came along, there wasn't so much need for someone to draw up a same size rod drawing on detail paper, so the job got quickly forgotten and not interesting enough to remember. You had to be very precise in your technical drawing skills and the writing of instructions...

Now if I could just persuade you to come round and give a practical demonstration.... Thanks Jacob! Really that's far and away beyond my comfort zone. I'll leave that to the experts.

Thanks for this. I owe you a pint.

And following the rods discussion with interest. I used to work in a big retail design consultancy. We had to check the rods from the sign manufacturers before they started to make the things, One day there was an orrible banging and crashing coming up the stairs and eventually two blokes...

Yes, I would like to hear that, if you don't mind taking the time. Mind you, short of nicking lead off next door's roof, I have no idea where I would get it from.

Off topic, but a couple of posts a while back were talking about adding lead weights to the existing iron rather than getting bigger iron weights for sash double glazing upgrades. (Mine are Edwardian 1908 and very simple boxes). When I get round to go looking, what are these called?

Noooooooooooo!

I looked at lots of box joint videos on youtube and some are incredibly complex, and look like they give superb results. Then I found this one, which is dead simple. I've tried it out on 7mm and 9mm fingers and it gives a very acceptable result. I don't think it's absolutely perfect machine...

Something I haven't quite got round to making. Flimsy slide out trays made of ply under the dog holes to catch the dust because the sawdust falls through into my storage boxes and drives me nuts.

Just out of interest, nobody has mentioned old fashioned 2 part araldite. Would filling the threads not make a decent bond, or is Araldite too brittle?

Ian, thank you that would be briliant, so I have fingers crossed. J-G, no, no lathe I'm sorry to say. Ironically my neighbour used to be a machine parts maker, but moved away years ago. There is an engineers supplier nearish to me, but they say all the toolmakers have gone from round here. I...

Thank you all very much for your replies and advice. It is indeed an ACME thread. I measured it as 12.2mm, 8TPI, which doesn't seem to fit any chart I can find, so no chance of getting some rod or nuts to play with off ebay. I reckon Record must have copied Stanley, and I read that Stanley made...

Hi all If anyone has any advice, that would be much appreciated. It's a Record 020c. I was generally scraping rust off and the adjuster knob wasn't turning. I soaked it in WD40 and it ran upwards on the thread after some persuasion and then it wouldn't go down again. I got it to the top of...

One thing that might not be immediately obvious (to me at the time anyway) is to check that the reference edge on the square is actually flat. I was filing away, cursing my lack of ability when I suddenly noticed that the actual brass edge wasn't even flat, so it was rocking and I had just spent...

Also, because your in a wheelchair you might want to try to turn the plane round to pull towards you, asian style. Same with saws etc. Try turning the blade round backwards in a coping saw or something so its pulling towards you instead of pushing away.

You're probably right, but 30, 40, 50 is easier to remember and less fiddly. After all, it wouldn't really matter if the grind angle is 24 and the sharpen angle is 28, so long as there is a bit of a difference, because that makes the amount of metal you need to remove from the cutting edge less...

Nobody's (?) mentioned using a file to true up the square - I have an old 12 in Marples rosewood and brass square as my normal weapon of choice. The tin blade was out by a mil or so, both inside and outside, when I acquired it, so by using the flip-over method, you can carefully file both of the...

Success, of a sort. The planer is built like a tank and I'm very pleased that just changing the bearings has probably given it another umpteen years of abuse. The "of a sort" bit is that: A) that blind needle bearing was a complete ******* to get out. I don't have a Dremel, so in the end I had...