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Yup, it ridiculously heavy and the amount of carbide in each tooth is shocking. It looks like it could be sharpened forever. When I saw that on the saw I decided I was definitely going to change the bearings no matter what.... Also, speaking of moulding heads, this came with my AGS as well...

Speaking as an American (who lives in the Wild West on top of it), one of the things that isn't mentioned above is making sure you match the riving knife thickness to the plate thickness on your blade... riving knifes (or splitters as the annoying non disappearing kind are seemingly called over...

Ok, good to hear. It was in an old Wadkin catalog I saw it, so who knows how old... That said, that one in the video you linked to was 1.25", but it had a keyway which is most definitely not a table saw thing. Also that one had the look of a Bursgreen like the first one of mine so maybe a...

Hmmm, unless they just put the Bursgreen logo on the knives for some random reason that would at least date that head from before 1955 based on what you say. Surprised, as I had assumed these were probably 60s or 70s era. The one with the Bursgreen logos on the knives is a different design...

Hi there, Thank you for the heads up. I had actually caught those when I started doing some online searching and watched the short series of them. That is one of the original Wadkin heads from the looks of it. Probably exactly the same or close to the circumference on both of these ones as well...

Thank you for doing that.. It is very much appreciated. I'm sure I will be able to sort it out, but it's always nice to start with a cheat sheet so there is less trial and error. I've got a nice Delta 40B radial arm saw I'm restoring and will then get these guys refurbished to use on it. I'll...

Ah, that makes sense... "full service" is not something you see much these days so forget how that used to work in those days....

Interesting. I'll have to determine which version these are. Didn't realize they were set up for different depth of cuts as well as widths so will have to check that out. I would have thought Wadkin/Wadkin Bursgreen produced some sort of set-up manual or sheet for these at some point given...

Hi There, Looking to eventually get these guys back in action. Both very nice overall condition. Knives need some attention and I plan to fully refurbish/restore, balance and sharpen them before putting them back to work. One came with a few spacers for varying width, but I will likely make...

Wish they had made such a jig and corresponding top piece for the BER2. They look super handy/useful to have. Wonder if that jig could be used with a standard router collet adapter for he BER2....

If you have all the items in the pictures you just posted then I'm pretty sure you have everything you need. Isn't that spindle top piece in that picture the one you indicate you need? I just looked real quickly and the BRS uses a top lock nut (that is what that pin spanner wrench is for in...

Which model WB? Likely yes, as all the models I'm aware of came with removable spindle top pieces. Some earlier models used a taper other a straight shaft for the pieces. Both used draw bars to secure. Not 100% sure what you are asking though. You want to fit router bits to cut dovetails on...

Given it i still technically Fall I believe it would be proper to make a Boulevardier... and once summer hits the Negroni will be an acceptable aid to the thinking bit of old machinery fixing. :)

Ok, I think I know what you are getting at... i was imagining more movement, but based on what you are saying the arrangement makes sense. I'm thinking that when I remake them I could essentially just mount them unthreaded and it would work in the same manner, but I'll have to see once I get to...

Pete, was meaning to ask, is this brass threaded rod and nut BSW or is t actually metric? I'm assuming by your notations that it is metric. Also, what keeps it from backing itself out of the trunion and or off the link as the blade moves up and down (over time)? Is it captured on that link in...

The close ups show the rack does have a rounding of the edges at the very top. It's also clear that each slot in the rack was cut in a two part process. I think if you just follow the profile of the knob as shown in the pictures it would be fine. The "sprocket" part engages the rack with...

Ok, I was going to say the hub attachment on yours (in the picture) looked offset, but if it is the older one with "frame" that is located with those two lower bolts that make sense. In your set up I don't think the play would matter as that frame is fixed by the two bolts, but in Pete's later...

Part Trois.

Part deux

Here are the best I can come up with. Hope it helps. Was just in the middle of cleaning up the fence rails and re-mounting them to the saw so opportune timing.. KT