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I was looking for a neater solution that perhaps I could install inside the case of the extractor but as you say the resistor required would be too big after doing a few calculations Think I might go for the set up that has the remote switch and current sensor the install inside a tstak case

Another good idea Andy if it was a fixed table that probably would do the job. Would fall off during dismantling and transport

Good idea Colin only problem with that is when it’s taken apart it all lays flat together in my van and make it even heavier as it’s pretty my 2 sheets of marine ply.

Made this few years ago and it’s about time to cut bout 20mm off top edge as it’s a bit cut up as you’ll expect. Any thoughts on how I could make a sacrificial edges as I will only be able to cut some off so many times.

Another supplier is https://www.part-on.co.uk/fabrications/ Not ordered from them but were quick at answering my questions

Workshop is more of a hobby and to make stuff for the house. I work for a subcontractor.

Was chatting to my neighbour he suggested that a resistor might fool the extractor to think there’s a tool being used?

Think this one would work https://www.amazon.co.uk/Module-0-25second-Adjustable-Opto-couplers-Isolator/dp/B0761XBPT2 I was thinking that I wanted the remote to work on the overrun but in the time I’ve used the tool and pressed to button it would been on for enough to suck up last of the dust.

I have it set up with a remote like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-Remote-Control-Switches-AC100V-240V-30A-3000W-Relay-Wide-/372559855666?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 But I would like the remote and auto functions to work together without going anywhere near the extractor.

Yes that what I want it to do. Your right I see the problem permanent live to + and switch input to common only

😂 Shame it’s a rotary switch

What ordinary relay would you suggest? I work on site most of time and requires 110v tools

Thanks Beanwood It’s a template I had cnc cut for me. It has 20mm holes along first column on the right and bottom row and the rest 30mm holes at 96mm centres for guide bush. 20mm holes were used to line up template with previous routed holes using benchdogs rail dogs.

Made these about 6 months ago so I could have full support and flag stop for repeatable cuts up to 3m with the mitre saw. They are self supporting off the stand and only require 3 m8 thumb nuts each side. I need to make the outer bolt adjustable in height as it hangs a bit low and raised up...

Thanks I got the aluminium extrusion for the upper frame and the pivot for the hinge from KJN Aluminium. I had the plates cut to my own specs on a waterjet if we’re to do it again definitely have it cnc machined as water jet not as accurate as I had thought I cut and drilled the the other parts...

I have a remote switch for the extractor. It has a power take off socket. To use either I have to manually turn the switch on the extractor it’s a pain as there usually something in front of it. So that brings me to make this arrangement so I can have best of both worlds that would increase my...

Agreed I’m not 100 percent with the way I did my one as the either the adjuster or plunge lock is on the back depending on what way it’s mounted. When funds allow want to get a proper lift but it will do for the interim.

And some thread lock

How about short m6 cap head bolt with one of these THREADED BAR CONNECTOR M5, M6, M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, M20, M24 A2 STAINLESS. | eBay Then a length of threaded bar Like I did for mine

Like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-5A-to-50A-Amp-110V-220V-Power-Supply-LED-Strip-Light-12V-AC-110-220-/164018856168?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292