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Hmm I supplied him with goods after he had seen my details on here. I can honestly say......THE ONLY person who has spoilt the reputation of the forum Sorry to say that as ALL of the other guys on here have been very honest And I wouldnt name and shame without just cause....not a lot but...

Nick Sorry Christmas caught up with me. With the rip blade it will still depend on the type of material and thickness you would be cutting. If its very thick and hard material fewest teeth possible. I have one with 18 available from stock. If its going to be general softwoods up to 50 mm thick...

Been trying to get in touch with him for a while but doesnt seem to answer any calls. Any help appreciated. Doug

Not an easy question to answer for occasional users. the pro's will know as the blade doesnt cut the material as easily as a sharp one does.....though this should apply to everyone. if you start to get burn marks on the side of the blade or on the material is a good starter point. I can only...

Morning Lets deal with the finish problem first. Whenever you cut any material with double sided veneer/coatings you will have a problem getting a clean cut on the underside as the ONLY way to really achieve that is with a scoring saw. It is possible to do the taping and sacrificial things you...

IMHO All of the cheaper blades mentioned are possibly value at the price. what you need to look at is how much carbide you are getting on the blade because that will determine how long the blade lasts. small tips and you need to buy a new blade again very quickly.....not necassarily economical...

Wow 120 teeth for ripping. No wonder the blade is burning. I am even surprised it cut at all. there arent many 120 teeth blades sold so I would like to know the geometry (there are some thin kerf, square top, neg rake blades.....is it one of them?) as 9fingers said with 10" diameter for...

As a few others have said you are really using the wrong machine for the job. If you are going to do it..... For 184 diameter I would suggest as few as 12 teeth and cut through very slowly. letting the blade do the work and making as many passes as necassary to not strain the blade or machine.

What diameter is the blade you have bought? if its 300 mm + then 30 teeth is ok for ripping. If its smaller then you have far too many teeth for the application you are going to carry out

cant get a 270 or 280 blade from the factory I use. nearest would be 260 mm but that has 2.6 kerf/1.8 mm plate which is too thin for your riving knife. And they wont be avialble until early June!

A small list of manufacturers/suppliers of top quality blades Leuco Leitz AKE (quite expensive) Stehle Freud Axminster Cutting Solutions :mrgreen: Duebro NLS Crowley Saws Ernest Bennet Could go on but got to the bottom of the page

Not sure why you need an online supplier. Find someone who can supply them order the ones you want pay for them Simples

Reducing bushes are available but.... you need to make sure the thickness of the bush is thinner than the plate of the blade. otherwise the locknut will clamp only on the bush....blade will spin. I may be able to get 1.8 mm thick ones but not sure what thickness the plate may be on any blade...

Are the knives anything like these: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/search.php?keywords=barke&terms=all&author=&fid%5B%5D=24&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search you may not have the holder to seat them. they may fit straight onto the block

do you know who used to make the CMT blades?

Your blades will need 2 pinholes. either: 10 mm diameter 60 mm centres of pinholes or 7 mm diameter 42 mm centres of pinholes most blades are now made with a "keyhole" arrangement that covers both on the one blade as standard. so you wont need to worry about them

I agree the Stehle blades are TOP quality (I ran the firm for 8 1/2 years) But they only sell through their network of agents/dealers so you will always be looking at the possibility of paying a premium for your blades. One of the other advanatges of the Stehle range is they used to stock the 72...

If the original blades should be 30 mm high then the 20 mm ones have been reground many times are probably not very safe. The back (bottom) of the knife will most likely be close to the bottom of the wedge if not part way up it. New 310x30x3 from stock :wink:

Karl I may have some special screws you could fit in the holes. the ones used for the conversion kit on this site: http://www.barke.de/web-content/eng/pdfENG/KatalogEnglischMail.pdf scroll down to page 8 of the actual catalogue

But if the chip breaker (wedge) has been pulled up..... has that happened? there looks to be a lot of knife above the back seating of the actual block in my experience the back bevel of the knife should be just a little higher than the main body of the block