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I suggested the Sedgwick PT255 at the price that you had in your original question. I had mine fitted with German Barke blades which are longer life than the standard HSS knives and also are double sided. I got mine from Doug at Cutting Solutions and they were excellent. I now have a Hammer...

I currently have Makita, Dewalt, Festool, Hitachi and Hilti and have not had problems with any of them over many years of use. I think that Makita offer really good quality tools at a realistic price. Its more about looking at what you are going to need and choosing a manufacturer with the...

I would go for a Sedgwick PT255 that will give you up to 10" or 255mm width of cut. If you search you this forum you will find an article on one I rebuilt. I would find example with longer tables than mine, which are actually more common than the short bed one I had. A fantastic machine that...

If you are happy with your bandsaw then no need to spend any more. If you need to re-saw harder woods in large sizes, say re-sawing Hard Maple or American White Oak with a 10 or 12" thickness then obviously you will realise quite quickly that you will need a larger/heavier machine. It...

If the budget won't stretch as far as a new machine for the spec you want then I would look to try and pick up something secondhand, if you are happy to source yourself then all the usual web sites. If you want a little more reassurance and maybe some form of warranty maybe try a machine thats...

You won't go far wrong with any of the Italian made machines, substantial build quality thats reflected in the weight which is typically 170kg +. Made for a trade environment and supported for a long time. Good resale values on single phase machines. If it must be new then: ACM 440 @ £1750 +...

I bought a TA145 back in 2013 although its only now that I am finally getting round to rebuilding it for use. Based on rebuilding the Brook motor and the spindle bearing it is a nicely engineered machine. I would agree capacity does not look to be huge, but neither is my workshop and it will...

You can contact SCM UK who own and support Minimax. They are based in Nottingham and you can get contact details on the web. You should also be able to download a manual. If not, let me know and I will e-mail a copy. Here is a photo of my bracket with the pin hole shown in the same position as...

My 2001 SC45 has a full 45deg bracket with a pin driven in arount the same position as your one stops. I removed the pin to get the full movement so I expect it was a H&S measure. I am sure you could either order the newer bracket or get a machine shop to continue the slot. I cleaned my...

If you are intending keeping the machine for a long time. I would go the extra mile and remove the motor and get it reconfigured as Delta. Having changed two machines now to new 240v motors including a Sedgwick Planer / Thicknesser (covered in another post on here) I dont think the quality of...

I did everything I needed with my old Axminster drill which was about 1/3HP so 1/2HP looks fine and a good range of speeds. I suppose the term old is a relative thing, I have quite a few years to go until I retire and this was made when I was serving my apprenticeship so to me its not old. The...

A backgeared drill such as the Elliott 2G/GS Meddings M4 is great for a situation where you are looking for an excellent quality drill capable of drilling accurate holes in wood or metal, to be fair and only in my opinion. If it you only ever going to be using it for general woodworking, the...

Photo as requested. The lever for changing from normal drive to back gear is on the left under the handwritten word grease. If you google Elliott Progress 2G drill you will get an informative description from the Lathe.co.uk site Nigel

Agree with others that it’s tight for budget but based your stated initial requirements, the two contenders could be either an Elliott Progress 2G or a Meddings Pacera M4. I have the Elliott, which I got just before Christmas for nothing as it was about to go for scrap as the establishment that...

Hi David, thats really good news. The bearings should be pressed onto the cutter block then inserted into the housings. I would try and have it welded as a first pass as you have nothing to loose, can you post a photo of the cracked side? Also, on mine at least, the outfeed table was shimmed...

It's often quoted that these machines are a great buy because spares are still available but spares are not cheap to buy, nothing against Sedgwick as I still think they are great machines. The front capping piece is used with the other grub screw to align the cutter block side to side. So with...

If its a Sedgwick PT255 /PT260 style planer, replacing a 3-phase motor with a single phase motor is not a completely straightforward job. The original Brook-Crompton single phase motors had a particular arrangement for the start/run capacitors and you have to be careful about the choice of...

The grub screws only position the bearings and block in the two side castings and provide retention for alignment. You won't like the answer but I imagine you will still have the infeed table stay fitted, re-fit the bolts in the bottom of each side panel and the left hand outfeed table and...

For me, space limitations dictated a small compact planer and the Sedgwick I had was the short bed version which allowed me to have a compact workshop with space to still make things. If I had a larger workshop or a different layout I would have looked at a 300mm machine such as the Minimax...

I don’t know how long it would take to change them all but I never changed the knives in the Sedgwick PT255 in the 4 years that I had it; they were German Barke HSS knives but I did get a couple of nicks in them with small nails from reclaimed oak. At least with this block I only need to rotate...