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https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw= ... %20washers

A remarkable family. Looking forward to this years TT and cringing as they wring the necks of those bikes and knowing there’s no way on this earth I have a tenth of the bottle required.

Steve, Do you not use your jig that references off the front of the rail anymore or is this just a back of the rail option (which I shall be copying again!)?

Oscar, I've made a number of items out of mdf for bathroom use (painted of course) and never had any movement issues.

But you can’t make a box with it can you? The tapered ‘fingers’ won’t allow a right angle joint like a box/comb joint (unless I’m missing something).

Been working on this for a while. As I'm pretty crap at design it takes me ages to come up with something I like. I was initially influenced by the Gilpin leg but didn't feel I had the tools to easily reproduce so after a number of ideas I finally settled on a simple taper. Then, even if I...

Thanks for that, good to know it’s worth doing. I’ll go to 240 simply because I have some mirka discs.

As I don’t currently have any topoil but do have some polyX (and know I need some more) then I’ll be trying the polyX first. If it works for you it’s going to work for me! I will give it a decent rub down first although not much more than 240.

Thanks Phil, - I missed that when I was looking earlier. Interestingly Osmo's emailed response says a light sand should be sufficient but also attached the data sheet! Think I'll try a small area first and see how it goes. Hopefully the top oil can also be used as a 'general' finish as well as...

Thanks, - not so worried about the food safe aspect (we don't prepare food directly on the worktops) more the will it work on top of danish oil? Probably worth contacting osmo direct.

Need to spruce up worktops that have previously been finished with danish oil. I've tended to move away from danish to osmo and wondering if anyone has any experience using osmo over danish? Obviously a rub down first but worried it might not 'go off' properly over a previous finish. Would it...

Did you do a proper reset or just power off/on? I find that a reset (power and home buttons together for a few seconds if you don’t know) sorts out a wide range of issues.

Thanks for the responses. I've had a look at many images for the cranked hinges and concerned the pivot point isn't far enough back. I suspect I'll need to order a couple of different pairs and see how I get on. Mitring the back rail is a good idea but the leg 'stand off' means this could end...

Thanks Mike but the frame and panel construction doesn’t lend itself to strap hinges (and I love those wooden home made(?) ones). I do think my only option is to build up the back rail and use butts. Ah well, - teach me to design properly mext time!

This is the back of a blanket chest currently in the course of construction. The lid overhangs the top of the legs by about 5 mm so I can't see how bog standard butt hinges will work without fouling the leg. Are there any hinge types suitable for this type of set up? The only other option I...

Car spray paint? Couple of rattle cans should do the job if you want two colours.

Sorry to hear of your impending loss Bob. As I’ve got older I’ve got softer and loosing a dog has a big impact on me. We lost two quite close together just over a year ago, - broke my heart at the time. This is the replacement, a husky/GS cross (rescue). I spend all day with him so we’ve got close.

Lee, PM’d re the festool midi

I've made lots of picture frames, some quite large (over 800 mm in one or both directions) and always use hardboard as the backing. Never had any movement. Sorry Bob doesn't help with your issue just shows how relatively inert hardboard is.

I’d love a small amount Mike (enough for some small boxes) but an 8 hour (ish) round trip is pushing my limits! Given that I’d be making smaller ‘stuff’ some of the small section bits that can be machined down would suit. If you do decide to do some ‘mail order’ I’ll be very interested.