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As someone who is interested in exploring wood turning to support (literally!) my metal turning work I'd be very happy to pay 10-15 pounds for permanent copies of demos of this quality. Thanks for making Richard's demo available, even if only temporarily - his clear explanations of tool...

But Brian's suggestion is better! Bob.

Doesn't it depend on the grade of brass? I've tried pushing things with CZ121 (the ubiquitous 'free machining' alpha/beta brass) and I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't cold work to that sort of radius without cracking whatever the annealing regime. Maybe I've not tried hard enough though...

They work fine for countersinking metal - I often use them in mild steel. Like Rorschach, I sharpen inside the hole - there's a good video explaining why and how here. Rob

You don't say which Meddings you have, the power of the original 3-phase motor or what you mean by a big cut, but my Fobco Star with a 250W 1-phase motor will drive a 35mm Forstner (the biggest I've tried) through hardwood without complaint. If your Meddings/inverter setup was baulking at that...

Rob, I have sent you a PM (or 'started a conversation' as it is called these days). Bob.

It sounds to me that this might be a feed/speed problem. You don't say what diameter work you are parting, or at what speed (rpm). It's not uncommon to get a bit of chatter when starting a cut - you just have to be bold and plunge the tool until it starts biting then adjust your feed to 'keep...

Devil's tooth?

Grunty, it is indeed a big subject, to which books have been devoted. IFAIK the most recent (2016) is The Mini-Lathe by Neil Wyatt. I think £12 would be a worthwhile investment to give you an overview of these machines. I haven't read the book myself, but Neil is the editor of Model Engineers'...

Blimey, I'm an 'established member' - not been here for a while and it's all changed. Bob.

Thanks - for some reason I had it in my head that there were safety issues, but it seems not. I'll rip away, angling cuts as advised. I can cope with sharpening OK - it's likely to be one-off, so not worth buying a special chain. Bob.

Is it safe to cut seasoned firewood along the grain with a standard chainsaw? The reason I ask is that I have been given (literally) a ton of seasoned hardwood, but a lot of it is in chunks too big for my splitter and I'm too old to wield an axe. I've searched using Google and get Texans saying...

Arrived this morning. As I no longer have a brace to drive the square tang I had to lash something up: Light pressure with the tailstock, a couple of turns of the chuck (by hand!), nice little curls of swarf, job done. Concerning chisel sizes, the pilots that came with the reamer cover 1/4"...

Thanks for further replies. Re hardness, I was thinking the chisels couldn't be very hard if they can be reamed with the type of tool Robbo pictured. Eric is right that the corners of the chisel in my pic have rolled over - when I've got it sharpened I'll give it a workout and, if it happens...

Thanks for your incredibly generous offer Robbo - looks like what I need. PM sent! Trevanion - thanks for your reply. The screw will have to remain one of life's many mysteries, along with Multico's decision to use a left handed thread on the star wheel which tightens the lever... Andy - pic...

Wow, that's an impressive rescue! Mine had been standing in a shed for five years, rusty but nothing like yours! Just paraffin, Scotchbrite, rewire and a bit of elbow grease: You don't happen to know what the screw on the front of the casting which takes the chisel collar is there for? Bob.

Thanks for your detailed reply Trevanion. This is one of the chisels I have: Crappy pic, but you can see the secondary bevel, and the arc looks much more like your pic of the Clico than the Japanese tool. The chisels came with an ex-school Multico K1 morticer - I paid £75 for the lot...

I need to sharpen some second-hand hollow mortice chisels. I've had a look, and there seem to be two types of tool on offer to do the internal bevel - diamond encrusted cones and things which look like countersinks with a pilot. Some say 'suitable for most Taiwanese chisels'. Mine are old...

A tailstock fixture was the first thing that sprang to my mind - something along these lines: I have something similar on my engineering lathe (albeit for 90 degree cross drilling) and it doesn't seem unsafe - the work is clamped into the V, not shown in my rough sketch, but easy enough to...

Hi Democritus. Some time ago I had lengthy correspondence with another forum member about this - he too needed a longer column on a small bench drill. After much discussion of strategies, and research into available tube, it turned out the most cost effective solution was to machine a new...