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Espares do a 20W 1920lm daylight (4000K) in BC. I bought half a doz about 6 months ago, no duds or failures so far, and pretty bright. Rob.

Well, you'd think so (that was my assumption too at first) , but it turns out B-series tapers are sections of full Morse tapers - see the Wiki link in my first reply to this thread for a table of correspondences. To check this out I've just tried 'reversing' an MT2/B16 arbour in a B16 chuck...

Hi, the sleeves I linked to have an MT1 female taper on the inside and an MT2 male taper on the outside, so if I've understood your problem correctly you just need one - the narrow end of the sleeve should match the B10 male taper on your spindle on the inside, and the B16 female taper of your...

Excellent that you have found definite info on the tapers. Out of interest (because I've never come across such things) I had a cursory look for adaptor sleeves, but didn't come across any. If they're not commercially available it may be possible to exploit the fact that B10 is the small end of...

Looking at caveman's eBay link to the machine, it's not a normal lathe! Seems it's supplied with a drill chuck on the headstock driven directly from the motor spindle. So quite possibly a male taper on the spindle, odd as it seems. Rob

Hi caveman - I'm assuming that what you have on both machines is a male taper machined on the end of the spindle, so an arbour isn't what you're after - more a sleeve to bring the spindle taper on the lathe up to a larger size. Taper fitting drill chucks usually come in one of two flavours -...

Steve, I don't think you're going to get any meaningful advice unless you say what sort of machine you want to fit the vice to and what you want to do with it. Regards, Rob.

These may fit the bill. They have a data output port as well as the local display, so can be hooked up to a remote display if needed. How to fit depends on the table you have - I fitted them to a mill table, it only involved drilling/tapping a couple of holes for the brackets. Same company (Arc...

Arf! It happens all too often... phil.p's excellent suggestion reminded me that my Jet drill, which has 12mm arms actually has flats cut on the arms near the point where they enter the hub - presumably so you can get a spanner on them to tighten, not that I've ever felt the need. So that might...

A couple of thoughts on using ali... A rule of thumb is that ali is about as strong as steel on a weight-for-weight basis (the Youngs modulus for ali is about one third of that for steel, but it's about a third the density), so you will derating the stiffness of the arms by a factor of about...

Set of five Forstner bits for £2.99? Blimey! They must be rubbish surely, but I don't think I can resist at that price, just out of curiosity! One born every minute I suppose...

Thanks. The project is repairing/restoring floorboards which are perhaps 200 years old. Some were so bad that bits had to be cut out and patched. I found some boards about the right size from a salvage yard (anything from 10 to 14 inches wide, seems they didn't have standards back then, and...

Bit of a long shot this! I've been experimenting with Van **** crystals and today made up a concoction of 8 parts Fiddes Premier SP lacquer to one part Van **** solution. The lacquer is a clear gloss waterborne (not waterbourne as it says on the label!) polyurethane/acrylic cross linking resin...

If you happened to have a drill press to hand :wink: together with one of those vices with a vertical V in the jaws on the table, you could stick the new arm in the vice and through a hole in the drill table then use the nose of the drill chuck against the back of the diestock to get you...

6013 rutile is an OK starting point - worked for me anyway. Looking at my boxes, 55A is recommended for 2.0 mm, 80A for 2.5mm, but in practice I've found I can use lower currents - but this is with a different (180A Parweld) inverter. Maybe best to start with 2.0mm and see how it goes? Rob.

Hi Eric, trying to open up a non-circular 5.9 mm hole to a circular 6.0 mm with a standard drill bit is unlikely to work. The bit takes the path of least resistance, then when it's had a bite decides to go back the other way and you end up with a bomb crater. Well, that's what happened to me...

Thanks for further replies - seems no-one has anything bad to say about the 9911, way to go I think when next payday arrives. Beau - thanks for the Ryobi recommendation, but a 4" is likely going to be too cumbersome and heavy for overhead work. Also I've heard that new Ryobi stuff isn't as...

Thanks for the endorsements of the Makita guys, sounds like it's the one to go for. Rob.

Sorry if this has been done to death - I had a search on the site, but the only things I found were oldish and didn't quite answer my question. My Bosch PBS 60 (green) has finally given up the ghost (sole plate worn through) and I'm after a replacement. It's one of those tools that I don't use...

I was in a similar quandry maybe ten years ago - I wanted (rather than needed!) a small benchtop engineering lathe, and was confused by the conflicting reviews of the Chinese machines. I also looked at the ML10, but they seemed few and far between and I was nervous about buying a S/H machine. No...