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Hi, I could likely help you out with this if no one nearer responds - I'm about 15 miles North of Derby. PM if you'd like to discuss further Robin.

A quick search reveals that these lathes have an 8TPI threaded spindle nose - is there some reason you can't machine a backplate to suit? If you can make the backplate, you can fit whatever you want onto it. Looks like a nice machine! Robin

A2 (304) stainless is considered corrosion resistant in 50% tannic acid according these guys. Orbital Fasteners do A2 up to 6x150mm - they price by the hundred but will supply however many you want priced pro rata. Westfield Fasteners do up to 6x120mm in A4 in small quantities but they're not...

Buy what you need when you need it - you might have to wait a day or two to cut that thread at first, but you can get on with something else meantime. Before you know it you'll have built a 'set' of cutters that you actually need and it's likely they'll be better quality than the 'boxed sets'...

I have had similar problems with W10 - in fact with every Windows incarnation since XP, which worked OK for me. The last laptop I bought (about £400) had no OS options , W10 or no deal. I groaned along with it. Then I inherited a an ancient Dell Optiplex desktop and thought I'd have a go with...

I may be missing something sploo, but if it were me I'd machine a replacement from solid bar - not too difficult as you have a mill? Why do you think your effort would be shoddy? EN1A or EN3B should be fine, EN8 probably overkill for this application as there is no need to harden. I'm willing...

Thanks, that makes sense, and also answers another question - I had read that wander can be caused by uneven blade set, but couldn't visualise which way it would go. By this reasoning the blade will 'steer' towards the side with the greater set. Robin.

Thanks for advice. I had some trial goes slicing 10mm pieces off 2x6 CLS , not good at first but after following the Snodgrass bandsaw tuning method I could get 600mm lengths with around 0.3mm deviation in thickness in 10mm slices . Not veneer territory I guess, but good enough for what I...

Thanks for replies - much to think about. This project arose when my daughter asked me if I could make a box to house three trays of pastel crayons she's bought, the cardboard box they were supplied in having given up the ghost. She would probably have been happy with something knocked up in...

Excellent, thanks - I'm migrating from metalworking machinery, where, as you know, machining plastic can lead to unpleasantness if you go too fast. Robin.

Good points, thanks - I'm of a nervous disposition I guess. Worst that could happen is that the machine will get gummed up, then I'll have to buy a proper P/T - which would be tragic, but I would just have to live with it :( Robin

I have some bits of 230mm wide by 27mm thick sapele which I'm hoping to reduce to 6mm boards to make a box. I have a Record 350S bandsaw, so not big enough to make a 230mm cut. So first question is: what depth of cut is realistic for a machine of this size in hardwood? I assume Record's claim...

Thanks for taking the time to take/post pics myfordman, most helpful. On the glue gun method - the pics in the thread CHJ links to show substantial beads of glue above the surface to be planed. Does the machine just cope with these, or is it necessary to trim them off before the stock goes...

Thanks, plenty of ideas to try - I have a hot glue gun, so I'll try that first. It was the cutting force that worried me, I didn't like to think about the consequences of the stock breaking loose , but it sounds like the glue can work. I also have double sided tape (the 'proper' stuff sold for...

I have some sapele offcuts which I'd like to thickness down to 6mm. My little 'screamer' P/T won't close down that far (maybe a good thing - perhaps working such thin stock wouldn't be safe?) so I need to attach the stock to a backing board I suppose. But how? Any suggestions? I'm a bit...

Cripes! I just had a look at the plate on my Fobco machine's motor and it says 1/3 HP, ie 250W. So I tried some stuff - no problem with a 12.5mm drill in mild steel, no pilot, just straight in, the machine didn't even sigh. Likewise with a blunt (Erbauer) 35mm Forstner in teak. Makes me wonder...

Masonry chisel bits are usually made from case hardened alloy steel - they have a hard 'skin' surrounding a tough, relatively soft core. Might not be the best place to start from for a DIY turning tool! Robin

Thanks (belatedly) for your suggestions Inspector. That sounds like a more rigid design, though I've not seen it on any tables around here. Something to bear in mind for a MkII if it happens. I think I've now answered my own question about joining end(ish) grain to to the flanges - either bed...

I'm building a picnic bench to a design based on plans on the internet and onerous (but obviously necessary) researches in the gardens of local pubs. First time I've done anything like this, so please bear with me if my questions are naive! This is where I'm at with the frame (a test bolt-up)...

Apologies Eric - I hadn't understood the distinction, but having Googled I see what you mean. Sales-speak it is. It seems a particularly extreme example though - exaggeration is expected, but this is meaningless to me. Robin