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Sorry, Mark - partly Tilgear's fault as they don't have a website. You'll need a Tilgear catalogue, the Urko clamp range is on page 81. The deep throaters are the last listed under the heading 'Urko No. 3-P Industrial Clamps' (top left p 81) The Universal System clamps I have for welding are...

I'm still using a late made Record 073, which unfortunately does not posess any parallel or normal surfaces... I can't decide whether to replace it with the LN, or the Veritas - are they equal - choice just due to personal preference?

I've been a fan of Tilgear's Urko modular clamps for a while, (especially for jigging up bits to be welded). However I had always missed these beauties! With Bessy's 300mm clamp the best part of 60 quid each at Axminster, I had continued to manage 'just one more time' without. So, no more...

Don't dismiss thin kerf blades if you have a lower powered saw, use a stiffener instead, unless ultimate finish straight from the saw is reqired.

What did you want to do with the rubbery stuff? If it's a saw from Taiwan/China it may also have a very badly made* V belt. This also needs quite high tension, if it's a long belt, to stop the belt vibrating. * A belt with a variable cross section changes tension as the 'lumps' run over the...

What awful news, it seems so surreal. I can't quite take it in. All condolences to his family. I met Barry at the last Big Bash and talked cyclones with him there, and by phone a few times after. You couldn't want to meet a more helpful guy. Goodbye, Barry Ivan

I see what you mean, MIke W. The pointer movement can also be seen statically, if you extend the blade for a silly deep cut and push with typical planing pressure. I wouldn't claim an accurate result, but probably well within an order of magnitude. It seems to confirm Jim Kingshott's comment (in...

Thanks again for your thoughts. I am both mostly self taught and still learning. My interest is an expression of curiosity, and hope for improvement. Is it any use? Only for a smoother, if you love the just-off-the-blade finish. If there's never a need for anything better, why do some folk...

Thanks for your observations, DC. I had not previously put a radius on chipbreakers fitted to radiused blades, as until reading Kato, I thought 'a close setting' (1/64 or about 16 thou) a good deal more than any curvature! (2-5 thou I guess, enough to taper a typical shaving out to zero...

I like rapeseed oil rather then camelia, which SWMBO gets me from Tesco. Cheap enough to slosh about and then wipe off excess. Like camelia it doesn't seem to cause marks or affect gluing if used in sensible amounts. **** oil has a good industrial lubricating heritage - so you might prefer...

I have used candle wax to help in cutting thin Ali, but not wood. Suffolk who supply bandsaw blades in the USA, reccomend diluted chainsaw bar oil for heavy duty mill resawing, and a product called 'Pam' (actually rapeseed oil) for narrow bandsaws (see link section D). I use Tesco's rapeseed...

Thanks to all for your thoughts. And best wishes for the New Year! I had a look at the Good Woodworking article on Xmas eve, Philly, whist SWMBO was doing the last shopping. Jeff Gorman appears to fall into the "traditional chipbreaker position" camp (1/16" back form the edge) Which according...

Tony, the bit you quote above is about the standard cap iron on a standard blade. But if a LN blade is even just one thou off the frog, it's hard to see how the frog, as is often claimed, is 'supporting' the blade. Especially as the cutting force is trying to lift the blade away from the frog...

I bought a 621 back from the US, cost me £100. It was made in England(!) it has a 1/2" collet supplied, but it may have stronger armature shaft. It has a 10Amp motor (cf UK 110v models) You could ask DeWalt UK? I do use 1/2" bits in mine as more rigid than 1/4", but only small diameters. It...

I have been thinking and experimenting for some years, around the essential functional differences found in Japnese and infill planes, that contribute to a woodworking advantage over the modern cast iron type. Certainly a thicker blade helps. A Japanese blade may be 8x thicker and so 8x8x8...

Wet and dry is conveniently available in a wide range of grades, but is not designed for metalwork. Silicon carbide, although very hard and sharp, is also very brittle, and fractures into smaller particles very easily, so if grinding something harder than paint you must change sheets very...

1/2 a Festool? But seriously, I started some 10yrs ago with 9.6v stick Makitas because 9 out of 10 shopfitters seemed to use them. Still going strong, light in hand and enough power for most jobs. . Don't get much use now since we got the little Festool.....An 18v drill might be too big and...

Re dado heads: DeWalt sold a new part for this - you remove the satndard blade backup 'washer' (the one with the slot for the woodruff key) and fit a new shorter one for dadoing. You might also need a new guard.

I used to have the cord pull switch fixed high on the wall, with the cord running round the machines, just under the ceiling. (use a few screw eyes) A better method, I think, is my Lidl radio controlled switching! These sets cost about 10 quid, and you get 4 13A radio (switch) controlled socket...

Just upgraded from 16" Taiwanese cast iron job to Axminster's Plus model with the 53cm wheels. Seems good value for money. Fence, lower guides, and table needed some brass shimstock to align. Table a bit wobbly (only 4mm punched steel trunnions) probably curable with amateur engineering. Well...