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The guides on mine are slightly different I think. I'll have another look later but I haven't seen the whole cylinder/bushing and screw arrangement. It could well be that I'm tired, hot and grumpy and not looking hard enough. I'm beginning to wonder though if the guides fluttering lightly on...

If the message from the previous poster doesn't show up by end of play today then they're all yours.

Haven't received a message. ???

Haven't received a message. Do you mean a forum PM or via email?

They only supply the top set. I spoke with the guy who apparently used to be an engineer for Startrite and he told me that they found that the biggest improvement came from the top guides being replaced. They used to make a lower set but found it had hardly any (if any) effect on performance so...

I've just found this website - http://www.accessories4woodsaws.com/rprg1.html Apparently they are a vast improvement on the originals. I'm not overly convinced with the idea of steel bearings as guides, but I'll give them a call and see what i can find out.

Some years ago I bought a Record BS400 bandsaw at the D&M toolshow. Originally I managed to get it quite well set-up and was managing to re-saw some fairly thick stock quite successfully. However for various reasons it didn't get much use for the last couple of years, being mainly relegated to...

Having a bit of a clearout and have the following up for grabs A selection of 63mm ducting and extraction stuff originally from Axi A selection of fittings for Axi 100mm system 7 lengths of 100mm clear ducting from Axi A selection of jubilee clips (mainly 100mm) I'm after £100...

And if the new DPM was properly lapped up the walls and under the existing DPC? Would that still pose a problem?

I'm not for one moment questioning the wisdom of MikeG, but I don't understand how it would cause a problem installing a DPM onto the concrete if there was not already one there. I don't need to understand this, but my natural curiosity made me ask (aka the voices in my head)

You could try this.... https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/sik ... ood-floor/ I haven't read the tech data download, so you should check that it's ok on concrete. As has been said i would probably apply a paint on DPM first though.

I thought I'd let you know how I got on..... With great trepidation I put the sections over the planer to create the reference edge. In the case of the knotty board, I edged the knotty side. Then a few quick passes through the thicknesser taking about 1.5mm off per pass. Then I got all gung-ho...

https://www.wearertech.com/shop/safetylite-clog

I reckon you could get away with using 50 mm strips of 18mm ply, maybe two or three laminated together and then glued to the front edge underneath the desk, although I bow to the superior knowledge of any structural engineers out there. If you did make it slightly bowed as AJB suggested I reckon...

Certainly for the first pair that went after the rebate. I actually felt it go as it was going over the spindle moulder. It was a 24 x 24 rebate and I took it in two passes so it should've been fine methinks, but no, halfway along during the second pass and 'boink' - we now have a kink!! It's...

Thanks for the quick reply Jacob. Given that I've already planed them to thickness though, which way would you go with the rip? In other words which cut is least likely to cause them to bow on the face? Normally I would always cut roughly to size first. The reason for changing the approach was...

Having got through three (yes, three) sets of stiles in a recent door build I'm now half way through prepping set number four. The previous three sets developed varying degrees of wonk, wind, bow, twist etc either after or close to the very end of the prep process to the extent where they were...

I'm about to put my MFT table up for sale if it's of any interest. Nothing wrong with it - I simply don't use it enough to warrant hanging on to it.

If you want to try the Osmo raw I've got tin on the go. You're more than welcome to pop over and grab a bit. (bring a container)

I've now got a Hammer A326. If I was buying again I'd look for the longest tables I could possibly afford on a good quality machine. Facing and edging heavy oak is hard work and not easy to get good results with short tables. I'm often working with 200 x 80 at over 2500 long, so longer tables...