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The difference being with the Workzone type is its got a casing so the rod needs to be longer

Just to give an idea of how I did the cycle axle

Warranty apart, if you could get your hands on any of a multitude of this type of machine its likely to have the same tensioner assembly But people don't tend to advertise knackered machines they scrap them usually I very much doubt you would be able to buy the V block on its own On the...

As suggested, Pegas

This one shows a little more detail It may even be the same problem as you have Again its a differently badged saw same as yours https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN7FgHHedV8

This is not the best video in that it doesn't detail the way its disassembled in full But may help to show the mechanism Again its the same saw, different badge, there are quite a few differently badged versions of the same basic saw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKlZJmSZ-Nw

This machine is basically a Scheppach rebadged as a Workzone I have one of these but its been a while since I took it apart If I remember rightly, you need to loosen the bolts/nuts under the cast base to release the side panel to gain access Unless the lower arm has broken or the rod...

if your card around the blade is close to the blade, if you push the travel of the arms to its highest, and while pressing them down to the lowest, any movement side to side should be noticeable against the card, if there is no movement between the two the blade is travelling at 90 degrees to...

You sometimes get a false negative by security software, but its not worth ignoring just in case I did find a not very clear instruction sheet which will do

Thats funny I read that same thread earlier but didn't notice the mention of Carters

I am getting insecure connection there, so will give it a miss I use archive.org all the time and don't normally get an insecure error message

No sadly not, there is no patent stamped on it at all that part of the label is blank

You are quite correct sir A Stanley GF-H1-A I had never seen one before today Should anyone have any instructions for same I wouldn't mind a copy

You are most welcome NB with the quick clamp you *do* clamp it tight with the top thumb screw, it can handle that as it has a rotating clamp within the quick clamp You will not regret getting the quick clamp it makes a world of difference

In that good old fashioned way, I would say you are warm(ish) ;-)

Picked this up on spec earlier I now know what it is but does anyone else ;-) It had me scratching my head for a while

Sell it on gumtree or similar Avoid the peering eyes, if someone arranges to come and buy or collect put the item in the boot of your car, serve them from the boot, nothing else in view Anything Makita or DeWalt will sell, if only for a fiver but often much more Ebay, collect only Gumtree...

I only just noticed at the last minute that this is a post from 2016 ! So this may be rather long after the fact, but for what its worth, I know someone who is a bit of an authority on drills, I believe he is writing a book on them I showed the photos of the B&D drill of the original posters...

I suspect you are in a minority there, those that know its cnc cut or laser generally dislike it, those who like in general it don't know or care how its made I am in the former camp, I hate cnc / laser cut junk

Aye but you can't do that with the bottom clamp fitted and blade through the work piece on the table ;-)