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You can make your own. A mall high strength magnet, that does not touch the kerf of the blade, and a 150mm steel rule (one that springs back to flat if it is flexed).

Lazarus Align the fence to the mitre gauge slot. Align the blade to the fence, using the tracking adjustment and a homemade bansaw buddy to get close. Then you can make parrallel cuts using the fence and accurate angle cuts (including 90 degrees) using the mitre gauge.

FYI I am told that internal height of the track I posted about, is 7mm. Juuma clamps. https://www.fine-tools.com/t-track-clamp.html I must say that are more expensive than I was previously led to believe.

This thread reminded me that I was looking for the same. I saw this today - as you can see, it can be used with a Juuma rail clamp...

If Woodbee2 does not sort you out, try Peter Quin at Furniture Craft School | Furniture Craft School - he may provide you with a day course.

I built a slightly modified version of Peter's portable workbench using CNC design's MFT style top. The top is wider than Peter's (but that is no bad thing) and therefore is not flat at the back when erecting it. The bench is heavy, so take heed of Peter's lightweight version - my one could do...

If the helicoiling is not successful, an alternative might be to fit a threaded insert.

Look at Peter Millard's YouTube for his portable bench.

Try contacting someone from this forum - they might be able to advise you. http://www.birminghamforum.co.uk/index.php?board=5.0

Try Dieter Schmidt fine tools.

I am little more than a DIYer but my order of priority would be. 1. Drill press - useful for any size of project. 2. Bandsaw - very versatile - can be used for small boxes and larger projects when used with fence, mitre guide and jigs. 3 PT - as and when you can't hand plane your project. Good luck.

I had problems with these clamps when using them to hold down my track saw guide rail. It was resolved when I realised that the 'L' shaped part was pressed hard up against the MFT style work surface. Backing this off allowed the clamp to equalise and then clamped OK.

Does anyone feel qualified to make a SketchUp guide 'sticky'?

When you have explored all the do it your self options, consider using a 'moving' contractor - e.g. piano movers. Example -

reck123 Have you made any progress?

Re getting the bed level. I can't think how you can reference the corners of the bed to the cutter block, but you could try and level the bed across the length of the block. Try slipping a piece of hardwood between bed and cutter block - like the way you would do with a feeler gauge.

reck123 Have you made any progress since your post yesterday.? Have you tried raising/lowering the bed with the tensioner sprocket removed, but maintaining chain tension by hand? That may tell you if there is a seizure somewhere or if the tensioner is over tensioning. I have checked the exploded...

What if you drill the 25mm hole straight through. Then from the other side, route a shallow shape to let in a thin piece of wood, to give you the correct depth to the 25mm hole. It could be just glued or glued and screwed.

For those of us that don't have Sky, 'The Chop' can be seen on Youtube.

reck123 / Nick b You should be able to push the tensiner sprocket mechanism against it's spring to allow you to get the chain onto it's sprocket. Failing that, remove the tensioner assy, engage the sprocket in the chain and then replace it's bolt while pressing against the spring action. I hope...