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He's got a Norton 3x Cheerrs, Ed

Whats wrong with your plane Olly?! :roll: Joking apart, thats the best way of finishing surfaces and keeping them flat in my opinion. Cheers, Ed

I like it. I think Tom has the right word when referring to it as 'honest' solidity. Cheers, Ed

A nice variation on the theme Martin. Cheers, Ed

I like it. Nice one Russ. Cheers, Ed

I found on the oak tables that I posted in projects recently that my LN block plane (which I usually use on end grain) with a 42 degree EP gave a terrible finish. Conversely my LA Jack with 57 degrees EP gave a better finish. I always thought low angles were best for end grain but I have...

I've never used a combi machine, but the fact that renowned professional makers such as Robert Ingham choose to set themselves up with them (Felder in his case) makes me think they must be an effective way of working. Cheers, Ed

Yes I know.... :lol: Here's the offending article; Its on my list of jobs to do, but making a dining table is quite a big undertaking and not anywhere near the top of my list for a year or two. Anyway, I said I'm not making any more tables for a while and I'm sticking to that :) Cheers, Ed

It certainly is possible to do it without a router, the favourite option probably being a scratch stock. I have to admit that even as an owner of one of Newts excellent brass scratch stocks, on this occasion I used this; If theres a lot to do and the bead is relatively deep, the easy way out...

Yes, although if I think about it the greatest damage incurred to date to my son George was on the corner of the Ikea (sorry rude word) dining table, which has a round-over on all edges. He would have got the same black eye from running into the corner of any dining table, regardless of edge...

In hardwoods they are not really vulnerable to damage, although they are more likely to cause damage (to small boys etc...) I very lightly break the sharp arrises with either worn Aluminium Oxide paper as Rob says, or sometimes with a small block planed chamfer depending on the look I want. If...

Definitely and he's got more...what broke my heart when I collected it is that he's used some to replace floorboards (under carpet) in his house and I suspect burned a fair bit (he was a bit coy about that part as he knew it was a 'bad thing'). Its not that nice to work with having had 40+...

They're quite simple really. Small tables are amongst the first projects I ever made and are good projects to develop skills on. I've now made loads of them in various forms and figured out what works and what doesn't. As for the wood supply, its nearly all gone. Unless of course I can persuade...

Here's what I started with. 300mm wide, 2 out of about 20 or so were full width boards, the rest made up of about 2 or 3 pieces. I ripped them all back to the consituent parts, removing the plywood spline and then rejoined them as necessary. I passed them through my thicknesser removing about...

No, 3 for my living room, 2 for my family room/study and 1 for the friend who gave me the timber. :) Cheers, Ed

Its not a by-product of the stock I had, its intentional. I thought they looked about right, in proportion. The rails are 55mm deep, against an overall height of 500mm, with a 300mm square top. Cheers, Ed

I used a tapering jig on the tablesaw, as I always do, then hand plane to clean up the cuts. This always works well for me. Interesting you should mention the bandsaw, as I was thinking about trying it for this, but in the end chickened and stuck with my usual method. Cheers, Ed

Thanks for the comments guys. Mike - the finish is Liberon Finishing Oil, which I use quite often and find it a very easy to use and durable finish. On items like tables, where people are regularly brushing against it, it attains a very nice soft lustre after a bit of use. Cheers, Ed

I use the CMT stuff and find it excellent Cheers, Ed

Have a look back at some of Dan Toveys posts - he has shown quite a few very nicely done alcove units. Cheers, Ed