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Cheers guys. I have actually already split some of the long logs in half to make side grain bowls. But the very short logs (~10" diameter, ~5" thick) I will be using for end grain bowls, and they seem to be the ones I have not had much luck with. So I guess I'll try roughing those out and then...

I had some logs given to me that I sealed with thinned down PVA (50/50) and then stored in your average garden shed on a shelf, and unfortunately, they have proceeded to still crack only a week later. So I then tried using two coats of non thinned PVA on some newer logs (same condition as...

So are we saying that in general, the public are happy to take any old crap? .. I mean that must be the case otherwise this would put the companies selling it out of business. Whenever this stuff crops up, I always wonder how much they saved ...

I've seen quite a few videos showing the 5 cut method where people spend a lot of time narrowing down the error to a few thousands of an inch. Yet they completely miss the fact that in practise, the fence they're referencing will have far more error. As well as several other variables. I'd like...

It's about 20 years old. My plan is to use the test bar mentioned by musicman. Either this or this (thoughts?). The ones from ebay seem to all come from India and will take a month or so. I'll put it in the headstock, and then add some shims on the machined ring (under the headstock, see...

...I think sometimes people forget that some of us are just woodturners in a little shed out back ;)

It doesn't really help as the amount of error we're talking about when the tailstock is right next to the headstock (which would be the case when using that tool) is barely even noticeable, and alignment would be forced when you attempted to clamp things down. Possibly damaging the tool, but...

I really don't think this is a setup issue. The reason this has cropped up is because I kept seeing the same issue with different boxes, and as I have said a few times now, I can reproduce the same issue with other accessories in the headstock. - I can put the base back on the chuck. Runs very...

hmm, I was picturing something much longer. The 2MT says 280mm overall length, so thats only around ~220mm sticking out. Is that really enough to reference against? Also - is the hole in the end to check it aligns with the tail stock? Edit : Ah - so these are designed for machinist metal...

What do you mean by lathe reference bar? It only fit's one way. [Edit] actually that won't be problem, so I can try that! Quite possibly

Here are some pictures of underneath the head stock. There was no muck or dirt. Just oil for lubrication.

As I said in one of the previous posts, I can reproduce the issue with other accessories in the headstock, such as a Jacobs chuck with a drill bit in it, or a chuck with a machined piece of round bar in it. Sure, the Jacobs chuck might have error, and the drill bit might have error etc, but...

It may have always been there, not sure. I've basically only started to notice it as I have been doing more and more pieces that aren't simply held between centers, and are long enough (more than 8") for it to be noticeable. I've previously only done bowls. Last night, I took off the headstock...

When the piece was between centers I added a dovetail so I can secure the ends in a chuck, so if everything is as it should, I should be able to place the wood in the chuck and have no gaps where the end of the jaws meet the side of the dovetail. If I do as you say, and use the tail stock to...

The problem is with turned boxes. When I have hollowed out both the lid and the base (both ends still have their dovetail and initial centering dimple), I then fit the lid to the base, and mount the base in the chuck (using the dovetail), and then bring up the tail stock for support. At which...

It seems to get worse the longer the piece you add to the headstock, which is leading me to think the issue is there. But as a previous poster said, could also be the beds :(

Yep - I'll have to try the shims anyway to see if it even solves the issue. It's not the chuck, as I tested it with multiple headstock accessories, including different, chucks, friction drives, Jacobs chuck etc etc. All appear to show the same issue. If it's the beds not being flat, then I...

I have the Fox lathe (pictured below) that has a rotating headstock, and have noticed an issue. If I move the tailstock close to the headstock to check alignment of centers (a cone shaped live center at each end), all looks good. But if I turn an 8"piece between centers, turn a dovetail on one...

Anyone got these and use them with an 18mm MFT type top? Is the underside screw absolutely required to use them? or can you get away with not using it and still get a reasonably secure fixing? or is it just going to easily pop off without it? I have areas of my top where the underside is...

I wonder if someone made a mistake? :p