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Yes, it does have a grub screw on the side with seems to tighten up the spindle, but I can't get it to a point when it helps for the whole of the travel. If I fix it for the end of the travel, it gets jammed at the start of the travel.

I have a ~20 year old drill press that I bought from Wickes, looks a bit like this, so cheap and cheerful. The problem I have with it is that the further you drop the handle to drill, the more play it has. When you have it at full depth, you can move the spindle with your hand by a good few mm...

I'm thinking of picking up this 1/2" router as I already have the 1/4" Dewalt trim/plunge router, so hopefully most bits should be compatible? Anything not to like about? Is it considerably louder than the trim router? Also, am I right in thinking that the only difference between the following...

I'm looking for some small pulleys to fit a 10mm shaft. I was hoping to find them with diameters of about 20, 30, 40, 50mm etc so I can play about with ratios. But I can only seem to find them starting at 50mm, which won't work for my project as 1:2 would then be 100mm, which is too big. They...

Thanks. I know that an induction motor would be most suitable, but they're huge. I am planning on making this to be much smaller than your average hobby drum sander. Something that will sit on a bench with probably only a 300mm drum. The widest thing I will be passing through it will probably...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200W-180V-DC-Motor-DIY-Project-Electric-kit-with-controller/254934128915 That looks interesting! thanks!

Yeah, having looked at images of the insides of a mains drill, my idea of taking it apart won't work, as all the gearing sits inside the plastic body of the frame. As for the 550 motors, they're for cordless drills, and as you say, don't have the gearing. I'd also need a transformer to bring...

I'm planning on making a drum sander like the one shown in this video. I will only be using it for very small projects, mostly sanding components for keep sake boxes, so I don't need a huge amount of power. However, rather than having a drill sticking out the side, I want to make a more...

I appreciate you're trying to help, but for what I am using this with, I really did just want to enlarge the hole. As suggested, I tried with a grinder and it did the job (I used a dremel with a cone shaped bit)

Really? just use a smaller screw! .. cheers buddy! hadn't occured to me. .... :rolleyes::rolleyes: But no, thank you for pointing out the obvious, but I wasn't using a screw. I needed to enlargen the hole slightly (by about 1mm) to get a bolt through. And no, I couldn't use a smaller diameter...

So is sprung steel harder than stainless steel then? as the description in the link I posted for the drill bits says they're suitable for stainless steel.

So like with a dremel? https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-8153-aluminum-oxide-grinding-stone

So how would I go about enlargening the hole?

But I did you HSS bits (see the link I posted). And the bit in question has only been used on wood previously, so was sharp.

I have this set of drill bits which I use for drilling metal (and wood), yet I always seem to end up cutting incompatible metal and ruining the bit. For example I recently bought a set of Tool Clips (pictured below), no idea of the material as it wasn't listed, but I needed to enlargen the hole...

The blade is parallel with the mitre slot. Edit : Thought you meant the table saw mitre slots

Thats the problem, the reference side has a mitre on it. I thought I could still use a square/gauge against it, but it's not stable enough to take an accurate measurement. If you mean use the other side, see the my comment below. I can't really do that accurately though, as even if I did cut...

So I've just made this compound sled. The idea being that the blade will be tilted to 45, and then you can set the fence on the sled to any angle, using a square for 90, or a bevel gauge for another angle. However, bit of an oversight. Due to the zero clearance 45 degree cut. I now can't butt...

GRRRRR :mad::mad::mad:

Wood releases moisture (dries) much quicker at the ends (end grain) than the sides (side grain). Where as we want it to release the moisture equally across the entire piece. When one section dries quicker than another, stresses are introduced and it cracks. The idea behind sealing the end grain...