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I did not. I did actually learn about that afterwards. But how would it prevent the white marks?

Very disappointed with how this came out. The microcrystalline in the grain has turned white ☹☹ I could definitely have done a better job in the corners with removing the excess. At the time though, it was clear, so couldn't see it. But not sure about the wax in the grain.

I think if metal planes were that much better than wooden ones, the Japanese would have switched over by now :) But like with anything, it partially depends on what you're doing with them and mostly depends on preference ...

I find the opposite. I don't really notice the join on the 60g belt, but find it very noticable on the 120g. And it's always been like that, even with new belts (Ceramic). And yes, the belt is on the right way :) Which makes sense I think. The join is always going to be the same size, no...

Velcro adds cushioning, so can also introduce error. Depends how picky you are I guess.

The Sorby is great, but does have some annoying things that could be improved. - A quick release for the table. Unscrewing the bolt on the side gets old really fast! (I change from the table to the fingernail gouge quite a bit) - The handle of turning tools hit the motor. Fortunately some of my...

cheers for the comments guys. The reason for adding the wax, is the feel it gives. Hard to describe, but I find a wax finish feels more pleasant in the hands. So I guess I my logic is, oil for a more durable finish as well as bringing out the grain, and then wax for the softer feel.

I like to make small keepsake boxes. I mostly finish them with Liberon Finishing Oil, but also plan to try hard wax oil. After applying the oil, what type of wax do you tend to apply to give a more softer feel? I am looking for a Matt/Satin finish. Not glossy Also, will the wax actually adhere...

I think the IKEA type flat pack stuff is generally fit for purpose, but it is only made to go togeather once. If you're moving, and need to take it apart and then assemble it again, you're probably going to have problems. And to be honest, I think that is by design ...

Do you mean adjust for square or adjust for depth? If it's the former, I think I could just have the holes in the poly be larger than the bolt, giving a small amount of wiggle room for squaring it up.

so, bit of an update on this. - Testing the same cut on some pine appeared to result in less tearout, but still not what I'd call a clean cut - Slower feed rate made no difference - Increasing the speed made no difference (it was already close to max speed anyway) - Adding a sacrificial piece...

I'll try to test that after work It's certainly not blunt.

I'm using the backer piece to hold it square. It's not moving as the groove is fine. The only issue is the bad entry tearout.

It's a two flute straight bit, about 1/4". I did cut it in a single pass, but it was only 3mm. 👍

I'm a little confused. How come I don't get this issue when I'm using a handheld router as per the right side of the image below? I've always expected it on the exit cut, but not had it on the entry cut. The bit is Wealden and very new.

So I need a piece infront and behind?

Why am I getting this tear out on the entry cut? The exit cut is very clean, as to be expected by having a backing board. Exit cut

I genuinely don't understand the people that will use a chisel, disc sander (whhhhyyy??), knife etc instead of just using a pencil sharpener.... :p If you have problems losing a pencil sharper .. stick it to something that is hard to lose! It hurts when I see people using pencils like this...

Cheers If I am trying to make a perpendicular hole and the spindle has play towards the end of the cut, isn't even a brad point drill going to wander off 90?

Cheers guys, I think I am going to try the fix Lard suggested, by tapping into the cast iron and using nylon grub screws to take out the play. It's worth a try before exploring other products.