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I see a lot of fly tipping along dual carriageways. Never understood that.

Ouch! .. but yes, the weather is crazy atm. Sunny blue sky one minute and a downpour the next. If it's any conciliation, I don't think MRMDF would have helped much. From my understanding, it's resistant to a little dampness ... as opposed to getting full on rained on! :p

Ah ok. It just seems that if the wood wears by even 1/5 mm, that would make it useless. I'm comparing it to how a mortise and tenon becomes loser as you take it apart several times. But as you say, in practise it must be fine else they wouldn't exist. hmmmm

I was looking at the following Japanese rebate plane. https://www.workshopheaven.com/rabbet-c ... -21mm.html The blade appears to 'clamp' into place due to it's wedge shaped thickness, but isn't the wooden negative wedge going to wear over time? meaning the blade will protude further and...

Agreed. Assuming it's in good condition, I usually expect about 1/3 off retail. But considering there is now an upgraded version of it, you could probably get even more off.

I'm not opposed to this, as I think it is probably the way to go, but I must admit, I do already find it annoying trying to find something to watch on all the different platforms. I currently scroll through Netflix, Amazon, and then normal TV. So this would be yet another thing. 90% of the...

Yes - it was for the "Full Kit" option.

If you can get the price down (the TS-200 kit was around £600 new at the beginning of this year), and you don't need portable, go for it!

It will keep happening until someone decides to fight back, and get killed in the process. Then people will wake up and something will change. Same as it always is.

Sorry - I didn't mean to ignore your reply. I have used those metal dowels and they do work well, but I think an exposed bolt head looks a lot neater than an exposed thread/nut. With the metal dowels, there is also the chance that the wrong thread undos when you're trying to undo a nut that is...

Good info! thanks! I'll go through that thread now Why would square ones be easier? wouldn't the length of the barrel give them an advantage in terms of more surface area to spread the force (they're quite long, 28mm) Not sure what you mean by a through bolt in this example? do you mean...

I assume you mean wood movement? ..it's adjustable, so just unscrew it, and make any changes. Or replace if need be.

I want my next workbench to be somewhat dismantlable, and so I think I am going to have the long front rails be bolted to the legs. The side rails will be glued to the legs. I am thinking of using some M10 bolts with barrel nuts, two per joint. The legs will be about 100x100mm and the rails...

I too tend to go the adjustable route, I think it's easier. No farting about with glue and screws. Basically, you just attach the stop with a nut and bolt, where the hole for the bolt is a mm or so larger than it needs to be. Giving you a bit of play. Here is an example, but I would just have...

There are for people who put sacrificial sheet materiel down to protect their workbench top.

The problem with these is that both holes have to be exactly in the same direction (well, one in the -direction). Not always easy if you can't use a drill press

If you have enough dowels, I don't see how it's drastically different to a floating tenon.

The angle you get is : 90 - (angle on front of saw) 90-40 = 50 Just like if you set it to 5 degrees, you won't get 5, you'll get 85.

If the blade won't go to the angle you want, you could shim the work piece? (strip of something taped to the bottom)

I've used a few of the cheaper doweling jigs and not found them to be very good. Most are difficult to clamp or require hand pressure. The problem with dowels is that they have no wiggle room, so everything has to be spot on. Unless you're going to spend a fair bit on something like the dowel...